Seán McGirr, the new creative director of Alexander McQueen, has finally found his footing. After a debut collection that garnered mixed reactions, his Spring/Summer 2025 collection has been met with unanimous praise. This collection draws heavily on McQueen’s legacy, particularly Irish folklore, and embodies the powerful spirit of the banshee, a supernatural female figure from Irish Celtic mythology.
The banshee, often portrayed as a sorceress or a messenger from the Otherworld, has a deep connection to the house of McQueen. Nearly two decades ago, Lee Alexander McQueen himself presented a collection inspired by Irish folklore and the wailing of the banshee. This collection, despite initially negative reviews, later garnered widespread acclaim, setting a precedent for the powerful, yet fantastical, nature of McQueen’s creations.
McGirr’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented on September 18th, 2024, was a clear homage to this legacy. The banshee theme permeated every aspect of the show, from the silhouette to the color palette. Silhouettes in organza, frayed and distressed georgette, Elizabethan-inspired gowns, and hand-embroidered dresses, including the breathtaking final look crafted from fine silver chains, all conveyed a sense of strong, conquering energy.
McGirr translated this radical spirit through a color palette of black and white, punctuated by touches of soft pink, gold, and pop orange. The impeccably cut suits reflected the House’s British heritage, with pinched and raised shoulders offering an urban demeanor and defined waists. Unexpected pleats infused tradition with subversive details, a signature McQueen touch.
The accessories were equally captivating. The shoes, almost sculptural in their design, challenged tradition. The Sparrow boots defied gravity, while the Crow platforms, with their brogue-style detailing, offered a unique twist on classic footwear.
The show’s setting further enhanced its fantastical aspect. Held within the grand confines of the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, artist Tom Scutt crafted a backdrop that melded classicism with modernity. A steel pathway emerged from a monolithic structure, providing a stark contrast to the historic ambiance of the Beaux-Arts.
Through the use of historical references, fantastical influences, and an innovative approach to design, McGirr has secured his legacy within the house of McQueen. As Alexander McQueen once said, “The world needs fantasy, not reality. We have enough reality today.” McGirr’s chimerical wardrobe allows us to escape into a world of enchantment and beauty, if only for an evening.
