Nestled amidst the dinosaur fossils and celestial wonders of the American Museum of Natural History, a new exhibition shines the spotlight on the opulent world of hip-hop jewelry. Titled “Ice Cold: An Exploration of Hip-Hop Jewelry,” this captivating display marks the first major showcase dedicated to celebrating the artistry and cultural significance of the custom bling worn by iconic rappers.
From the gold Adidas Superstars pendant of Run-DMC to Drake’s “Crown Jewel of Toronto” adorned with diamond-encrusted city mascots, the exhibition showcases a dazzling array of rapper’s delights. These extravagant creations transcend mere trinkets, serving as symbols of status, wealth, and artistic expression.
The exhibition’s curatorial team highlights the parallels between the ostentatious displays of hip-hop jewelry and the adornments of ancient civilizations. Etruscan gold dental bands, for instance, are seen as precursors to modern-day grills. With the rise of hip-hop, artists not only rapped about their precious jewels but also proudly displayed them as an embodiment of their success.
Guest curator Vikki Tobak, who oversaw the accompanying Taschen book, emphasizes the intertwined nature of hip-hop and jewelry. “Jewelry was woven into the fabric of hip-hop culture from the start,” she says. “It’s rooted in customization and remixing, just like the music itself.”
The exhibition eschews a strict chronological order, instead organizing the pieces around thematic sections that echo iconic song titles, paying homage to the genre’s rich musicality. “Hey Young World” introduces the exhibition, featuring Slick Rick’s signature eye patch, yin-yang necklace, and diamond-studded crown. Other notable pieces include Nigo’s Bape belt buckle, Cardi B’s nipple covers inspired by César sculptures, and Tyler, The Creator’s Bellhop pendant adorned with 23,000 hand-set stones.
The exhibition also highlights the collaborative spirit between hip-hop artists and local jewelers. Designers such as Jacob Arabo, Ben Baller, and Joe Avianne have played a pivotal role in shaping the unique aesthetic of hip-hop jewelry. The inclusion of female designers like April Walker in the exhibition underscores the industry’s growing diversity.
The exhibition not only showcases the artistry of hip-hop jewelry but also its enduring legacy. As Walker notes, “Each of these pieces tells a story of a unique moment in time and what that self-expression was about. That story will live on forever.”
While visitors may not expect to find hip-hop jewelry in a natural history museum, the exhibition curator, Tobak, draws a connection between the two realms. “When you think about the place that these artifacts and pieces have in pop culture and mainstream culture, it makes absolute sense to put them in the context of gems, minerals, and other commodities throughout time,” she explains.