Nestled just a half-hour train ride from Edinburgh Waverley lies the picturesque seaside town of North Berwick. While renowned for its top-rated golf courses stretching along the East Lothian coastline, this Scottish gem offers much more than just fairways. Here, you’ll discover some of the UK’s oldest heritage and natural sites, including Tantallon Castle and Bass Rock. But beyond the historical and sporting attractions, North Berwick truly shines with its enchanting high street, a haven of independent shops and restaurants. It has even been hailed as one of the loveliest high streets in the UK, and we wholeheartedly agree.
Start your North Berwick adventure with a visit to the Bostock Bakery, where award-winning pastry chef Ross Baxter and Lindsay Lees Baxter whip up mouthwatering treats. Indulge in their classic pastries, sourdough loaves, and, most importantly, the freshly-baked jam doughnuts, generously coated in sugar and filled with homemade raspberry preserve. Be warned, these sweet delights often disappear early in the day, so be quick! Once you’ve enjoyed your morning pastry, explore the quirky knick-knacks, captivating artwork, and handcrafted jewelry at Norden, Time & Tide, or the Westgate Coastal Gallery.
North Berwick truly spoils you for choice when it comes to dining. The Herringbone offers a refined yet understated dining experience, showcasing simple dishes made with the freshest, locally-sourced seafood and fish. Pair your meal with their delightful espresso martini for a perfect nightcap. Another highly-rated restaurant is Osteria, a family-run Italian delight offering just three starters, three mains, and three desserts, a dream for those who struggle with an overwhelming menu. And no seaside visit is complete without a trip to the local chippy. We recommend North Berwick Fry or TKH Fish Bar, where you can enjoy a hearty serving with a generous lashing of brown sauce and a refreshing can of Irn-Bru.
During the summer months, the Lobster Shack on the harbor wall comes alive, serving fresh tacos, chowder, succulent lobster rolls, and more, allowing you to savor delicious food while taking in the stunning views of West Bay Beach. Just 2km offshore from North Berwick lies Bass Rock, home to a large colony of gannets, described by Sir David Attenborough as one of the ‘wildlife wonders of the world.’ Embark on a boat trip from the Scottish Seabird Centre to this captivating land formation, costing £34 per adult and £24 per child (aged 7+). This 1-hour and 15-minute journey will not only bring you face-to-face with the magnificent birds, but you’ll also delve into the fascinating history of Bass Rock, a story far more intriguing than it might sound.
As mentioned earlier, North Berwick boasts an abundance of seafood. Whether you crave fresh lobster or succulent seared scallops, you can’t leave the area without indulging in at least some of the local delicacies (unless you’re vegan or vegetarian, of course). For a breathtaking view, climb the Law, a vantage point that towers 613ft above sea level, offering panoramic vistas of the town and the Firth of Forth. While the hike can be challenging at times (and not recommended on windy days), the breathtaking scenery makes the climb worthwhile. If the sea breeze and the climb tire you out, stop by the nearby Steampunk Coffee for a revitalizing pick-me-up. This roastery, established in 2012, not only serves delicious brews but also hosts events and live music, adding to the town’s vibrant atmosphere.
While many golf courses in North Berwick are members-only, there are specific dates at certain clubs where visitors are welcome to play a round. And there’s nothing quite like experiencing 18 holes in the birthplace of the sport, surrounded by the breathtaking Scottish coastline. As a seaside town, North Berwick is naturally blessed with beautiful beaches, boasting miles of unspoiled coastline. If you need to clear your head and get some fresh air, you’ll have plenty of options to choose from.
If you’re visiting Edinburgh, a direct train from Waverley station takes you to North Berwick in just 24-35 minutes, starting from £4.40 one-way. The last train back departs at 11.14pm, ensuring a convenient journey. North Berwick awaits with its charm, beauty, and abundance of experiences, offering a perfect escape for a memorable getaway.
