Roland Mouret, a designer known for his intimate approach to fashion, has built his label on understanding women’s desires. For over two decades, he’s been creating garments that embody this ethos, often draping and sculpting fabric directly onto the body. This approach remains central to his work, especially in today’s world, characterized by an overwhelming abundance of choices and relentless fashion noise.
Mouret observes that the pandemic exposed the excess in the fashion industry, leaving many perfectly good garments unsold. He believes we need to shift our perspective on collections, recognizing that women build their own wardrobes. Instead of simply chasing trends, designers should focus on expressing their unique personalities through their work and fostering a genuine connection with their customers. This is not about creating clothes solely for the sake of novelty, but about crafting pieces that resonate with the designer’s vision and the wearer’s individuality.
This shift in focus is evident in Mouret’s recent collaboration with Self Portrait. While backed by the label, the collection carries his name, signifying his distinct creative voice. The resort collection embodies a reimagined intimacy, showcasing the essence of Mouret’s design philosophy.
The collection speaks volumes about his signature style, drawing inspiration from his iconic tweedy tailoring that captivated London in the late 90s. A modern iteration of this aesthetic is present in a black tweedy suit, featuring subtle glitter that shimmers like moonlight. The tailored jacket is concise, with raised seams hinting at frayed edges, paired with a long, lean skirt, exuding both elegance and youthful energy. This is not a nostalgic exercise but a forward-looking proposition that reflects the contemporary woman’s evolving style.
The collection also showcases other notable pieces, like an ivory suit with a square peplum jacket and minimalist dresses in ivory and black, all featuring long sleeves, a narrow silhouette, and a sinuous swing. Gold-clasped necklines add a touch of unexpected asymmetry, creating a harmonious tension with the sturdy flat black leather boots. This deliberate pairing of elegance and practicality embodies the essence of modern femininity.
Mouret, however, remains adept at crafting evening looks that deliver impactful drama. One standout piece is a vermillion red dress, narrow and long, with a décolleté marked by two intersecting lines that subtly reveal a sliver of skin. Another compelling creation is a liquid black jersey tee with a diamanté round collar, paired with a matching skirt that blends swish and swirl. Finally, a dress with a draped neckline, providing the sole adornment, demonstrates the power of economy in design, resulting in a silhouette that embodies the signature swish and swirl synonymous with Roland Mouret.
This collection is a testament to the enduring power of a designer’s individual voice and the importance of creating pieces that reflect a designer’s vision and the wearer’s unique identity.
