Elegant Dress Watches Make a Comeback at Watches & Wonders 2023

The world of watchmaking converges annually at Watches & Wonders, a week-long event held in Geneva’s Palexpo convention center. This year, a clear message emerged: elegant dress watches are experiencing a revival. The neo-vintage aesthetic, gaining traction in recent times, has inspired watchmakers to create timepieces that pay homage to the past while pushing boundaries.

Rolex’s platinum Perpetual 1908 dress watch, featuring a baby blue guilloché textured dial, exemplifies this trend. It’s a clear signal of the return to elegance, with classic dress watches infused with a neovintage touch that exudes sophistication and timelessness. These timepieces are poised to become prized investments for watch enthusiasts.

At Patek Philippe, the Golden Ellipse collection received a captivating update. The reference 5738/1R-001, crafted in rose gold, features a refined chain-style bracelet—a reimagined take on Patek Philippe’s legacy of chain bracelet making. This contemporary design, incorporating a patented construction, took 15 years to develop and comprises 363 parts, with over 300 individual links meticulously assembled. The result is a supple, comfortable fit and adjustable length, making it a perfect heirloom piece.

Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony collection, a testament to classic watchmaking from the 1950s, embodies understated elegance. This year, the brand introduced two new 39mm Patrimony models in white and rose gold, featuring old-silver-toned dials with a hint of champagne and paired with olive green and azure blue leather straps, capturing the essence of contemporary style.

Grand Seiko, known for its dedication to precision and beauty, has released a limited-edition recreation of its first Grand Seiko, paying homage to its 1960 origins. The SBGW314J, encased in rose gold with a shimmery navy dial, evokes the eternal passage of time with polished rose gold indexes and hands. It comes with both navy blue and brown crocodile leather straps, offering traditional and modern aesthetic options.

Parmigiani Fleurier’s Toric Petite Seconde, a testament to the brand’s commitment to old-world decorum, offers a chic interpretation of a classic dress watch. Relaunched this year, the Toric maintains its signature knurled bezel while embracing a contemporary palette of soft green and beige. The gold dials, finished with an esoteric method rediscovered by the brand, create a grained and textured surface that subtly disperses light, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship.

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