Takahiro Miyashita, the designer behind The Soloist, named his spring collection “Plainsong,” intending it as a sophisticated rebellion against the casualness dominating fashion today. He criticized the “careless” way clothes are worn, emphasizing his point by intentionally excluding socks and jewelry in the lookbook images. Every garment, from shirts to jackets, was meticulously buttoned or zipped up, rejecting the oversized silhouettes prevalent in current trends. This collection marked a first for Miyashita, introducing short-sleeved shirts, a necessity for Tokyo’s scorching summers. Aloha shirts were adorned with intricate sheet music designs and a striking psychobilly-inspired leopard print.
However, the core of the collection was an expansion of Miyashita’s enduring love for British style. It unfolded in a palette of crimson and black, paying homage to the late British stylist Judy Blame, a close friend who was “like an older brother” to Miyashita. The designer recalled their shared moments, including evenings spent drinking at Blame’s London home, where he was always captivated by Blame’s unique style. This inspiration resulted in a distillation of Blame’s punkish elegance through Miyashita’s distinct lens.
Blame’s signature button accents appeared across blazers, Harrington jackets, and even berets, adding a touch of his iconic flair. Miyashita poignantly stated, “It might be said that Judy possessed me, or perhaps I wanted to embody him.” The collection featured an abundance of gold military shank buttons, each bearing the original Soloist insignia, embellishing coats and blazers with up to 300 buttons. Others were adorned with ribbons or intricately embroidered heraldic badges. It was a fascinating blend of punk and marching band aesthetics, simultaneously buttoned-up yet rebellious, a fitting tribute to Blame’s legacy.
Miyashita’s masterful tailoring, fabric choices, and silhouettes are consistently impeccable. The collection’s rigor and styling allowed his talents to truly shine. The Soloist’s meticulous attention to detail is what sets it apart. Miyashita even incorporated a strip of leather under the collar of his tailored coats for reinforcement, paired with plush pinkish velvet on the inside – a detail that undoubtedly would have been appreciated by Blame himself.
