Twenty-five years ago, director Douglas Keeve captured the whirlwind world of fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi in the documentary *Unzipped*. The film, a behind-the-scenes look at the creation of Mizrahi’s fall 1994 collection, became a cult classic, offering a rare glimpse into the creative process and the tumultuous world of fashion.
Keeve, a fashion photographer turned filmmaker, saw Mizrahi as more than just a designer—he was a “Renaissance man” who transcended the industry. Their relationship, both personal and professional, became a crucial element in the film’s authenticity. Mizrahi, in turn, embraced the chaos of his studio, allowing Keeve to capture the unfiltered energy of his creative environment.
The film’s central conflict arises from a negative review Mizrahi received for his spring 1994 collection. This sparked a creative fire within him, driving him to produce a fall collection that would win back the critics. The journey to that point becomes the narrative core of *Unzipped*, showcasing Mizrahi’s creative process and his unwavering dedication to his craft.
Despite the cyclical nature of fashion, *Unzipped* transcends the ephemerality of trends. The film delves deeper, exploring the heart of creation, the relentless pressure of the industry, and the personal sacrifices designers make in pursuit of their artistic visions.
Looking back on *Unzipped*, Keeve and Mizrahi reflect on the film’s impact and how it captured a pivotal moment in fashion history. They highlight the emergence of “transpersonal” fashion, where designers became more deeply connected to their creations, and the rise of supermodels who actively participated in the creative process. The film, they believe, serves as a love letter to New York City, a time capsule of a vibrant and dynamic era, and a testament to the power of artistic passion.
While the fashion industry has evolved significantly since the 1990s, *Unzipped* remains a powerful and relevant work. It serves as a reminder of the enduring power of creative spirit, the constant struggle for artistic expression, and the enduring allure of fashion as a cultural force.
