When costume designer PC Williams was tasked with curating the wardrobe for the Amy Winehouse biopic, he embarked on a fascinating journey through the late singer’s personal style. He unearthed iconic pieces like a satin varsity jacket embroidered with “Amy Woo” and a Star of David necklace, still cherished by Mitch Winehouse. He also delved into archival photographs, showcasing Amy’s vibrant persona: clutching five Grammys in a ruffled Dolce & Gabbana LBD, twirling in a newspaper-print Galliano bustier for a Paris performance, and captivating Glastonbury crowds in a paillette-covered Luella Bartley design.
Winehouse’s unique style, a blend of rockabilly, hip-hop, and vintage influences, transcended the boundaries of fashion. John Waters, a renowned figure in the art world, astutely observed, “It’s hard to look that cheap and pull it off.” Yet, Amy effortlessly did. Her look evolved from a Southgate girl’s take on early 2000s preppiness – Argyle knits, layered bubblegum tanks, and cargo miniskirts – to a distinctive rockabilly-esque wardrobe. This transformation was heavily influenced by icons like Ronnie Spector, Mari Wilson, and the biker molls of the 1960s, along with the hip-hop stars of the 1990s.
The fashion industry took notice. In 2007, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen invited Amy to perform at a dinner for their newly launched label, The Row, at Harvey Nichols. This event was attended by Peaches and Pixie Geldof, showcasing the growing influence of Winehouse’s style. By year’s end, Karl Lagerfeld declared her one of his muses, comparing her to a millennial Brigitte Bardot. His 2008 Métiers d’Art collection for Chanel, presented at Phillips de Pury in Victoria, featured towering beehives and Cleopatra eyes, a direct tribute to Winehouse’s signature look.
Rei Kawakubo, the visionary behind Comme des Garçons, went even further, using “Back to Black” as the soundtrack for her autumn/winter 2008 show. This collection, filled with satin bras and negligee dresses, directly mirrored Winehouse’s rebellious and glamorous aesthetic. “There’s value in bad taste, too,” Kawakubo remarked to Vogue’s Sarah Mower backstage.
While not everyone embraced Winehouse’s It-girl status, many within the industry embraced her unique style. Patricia Field, known for her work on “Sex and the City,” gifted Amy a pair of custom “Bam Bam” earrings. Jonathan Kelsey designed her eponymous “Amy” pumps, and Fred Perry collaborated with her on a collection of polo shirts and pencil skirts, a testament to her growing influence.
Today, Winehouse’s legacy lives on, not only through her music but also through her iconic style. Seeán McGirr’s debut collection for McQueen, with its nods to the Koko crowd and their “damaged opulence,” echoes her spirit. The aforementioned “Back to Black” biopic, capturing the essence of NW1 in its Carling-sticky, Marlboro-scented heyday, further solidifies her place in fashion history.
Sotheby’s Popular Culture Auction will further underscore this legacy, opening with a top worn by Winehouse on a night out at The Monarch in 2008. This red-and-black bowling shirt, embroidered with “Amy Civil,” a playful reference to her married name after marrying Blake Fielder-Civil, is sure to be a highly sought-after piece. The auction also features notebook pages with her doodles and handwritten lyrics, highlighting her artistic expression beyond music.
Given the previous sale prices of Winehouse’s belongings, the bidding is sure to be intense. As the auction unfolds, one can only imagine the buzz at The Hawley Arms, a pub frequented by Winehouse during her lifetime, as fans speculate and collectors compete for a piece of her enduring legacy.
