When Hakka immigrants arrived in Calcutta in the 1700s, they brought with them the culinary traditions of their Chinese homeland. However, as they settled into their new life, their cuisine began to evolve, incorporating the vibrant spices and flavors of their adopted country. This fusion gave birth to Indo-Chinese food, a unique culinary hybrid that has become a beloved staple in India. But as Indian palates have grown accustomed to this adapted version, can we truly appreciate the authentic flavors of China? This question lingered in my mind as I sat down for Chef Lin Lin Yang’s pop-up featuring genuine Chinese cuisine at the Far & East restaurant in the Four Seasons, Bengaluru.
What sets Indo-Chinese food apart from its authentic Chinese counterpart? Chef Lin explained the key difference lies in the cooking techniques. While authentic Chinese cuisine emphasizes blanching and stir-frying, allowing the ingredients to absorb flavors better, Indo-Chinese cooking relies on boiling and sautéing, resulting in a less flavorful experience. The thickened sauces used in Indo-Chinese dishes merely coat the food, unlike the nuanced sauces that permeate authentic Chinese cuisine. Chef Lin also highlighted the regional diversity of Chinese cuisine, akin to India. Just as each region in India boasts its own unique flavors and ingredients, the same is true for China. For instance, the Sichuan peppercorn from the Sichuan region possesses a distinct, pronounced flavor, while the Chinese toban chili from the same region offers a pungent flavor profile compared to those found in Indian markets.
Chef Lin’s pop-up at Far & East showcased a selection of authentic Chinese dishes prepared in the true Chinese way. From the 21st floor of the hotel, I could gaze upon the sprawling cityscape of Bengaluru. Inside the restaurant, dim lamps cast soft shadows on the black walls, creating an intimate ambiance. As the Chongqing chicken, perfectly battered and fried, arrived at my table, I couldn’t help but notice its intriguing blend of Indian and Chinese influences. The chicken, tossed in fiery hot peppers and garlic, offered a truly captivating taste experience. The Sichuan influence was also evident in the vegetarian dishes, particularly the Yu Xiang eggplant fry. This typical Sichuan dish masterfully balanced smoky flavors with subtler notes, creating a symphony of tastes on the palate.
One of the most striking differences between Indo-Chinese and authentic Chinese food lies in the use and application of chili paste. Chef Lin explained that true Chinese cuisine avoids the use of coriander, spices, and black pepper, relying instead on a more refined approach to flavor. As a Beijing-born chef with nearly three decades of experience in Sichuan cuisine, Chef Lin attributed his mastery to the incredible variety of ingredients and flavors found in the Sichuan region. The emergence of pop-up experiences like this is crucial. They provide an opportunity for the Chindian palate, which has developed its own unique flavor profile over centuries, to embrace the authentic culinary wonders of the Sichuan and Canton provinces.
This culinary journey into the heart of authentic Chinese cuisine serves as a reminder that there is so much more to discover beyond the familiar flavors of Indo-Chinese food. Through these unique experiences, we can expand our culinary horizons and gain a deeper appreciation for the vast and diverse world of Chinese food.
