The Venkatagiri sari, a testament to the rich heritage of Andhra Pradesh, boasts a fascinating history intertwined with royalty and the artistry of skilled weavers. The story begins in the 1950s when Bollywood icon Nargis Dutt received a white Venkatagiri sari, a gift that would soon become a symbol of grace and elegance. Wearing it to a prominent B-Town party, she was showered with compliments, making the sari the star of the evening. Delighted, Dutt wrote a letter of gratitude to Pramadwara Devi, the royal matriarch of Venkatagiri, expressing her pride in wearing the exquisite garment.
Known for its airy texture, achieved through a meticulous 200 thread count, the Venkatagiri sari holds a special place in the royal wardrobe, worn daily, not just for special occasions. This tradition dates back centuries, to a time when the royal family of Venkatagiri, recognizing the potential of their land’s skilled artisans, commissioned them to weave these fine saris. This patronage led to the birth of the renowned saris and the development of the ‘anni butta’ weaving technique, a legacy that continues to this day.
Over time, the Venkatagiri sari faced challenges, particularly with the advent of power looms, which threatened the traditional handloom weaving industry. The feedback loop between consumers and weavers weakened, impacting the artisans who dedicated countless hours to creating these intricate pieces. Recognizing the potential of this neglected craft, Antaran, an initiative by Tata Trusts focused on strengthening craft ecosystems, launched the Venkatagiri Back to Roots Project in 2021. The project aimed at revitalizing the craft, reviving designs, and connecting the weavers with consumers and the market.
Antaran’s efforts included bringing together consumers and weavers at the Crafts Council of Telangana in Hyderabad, where weavers showcased their collections and discussed the revival process. The project also facilitated collaborations with WeaverStory, a platform connecting business buyers and designers with artisans, to further the revival of the Venkatagiri sari.
Pankaj Shah, a mentor at Antaran, emphasized the craft’s potential for revival, citing its geographical proximity to markets as an advantage. However, he also highlighted a crucial gap: consumer awareness and willingness to pay a premium for handcrafted and handwoven textiles. Mridula Tangirala, Head of Tourism at Tata Trusts, echoed this sentiment, stressing the importance of educating consumers about the intricate process behind each Venkatagiri sari.
The making of a Venkatagiri sari is a labor of love. A simple sari, woven using the ‘anni butta’ technique, takes two days to complete. A more intricate piece, adorned with traditional motifs like parrots, flowers, leaves, and sarada checks, can take anywhere from 10 to 12 days, with the weaver working at the loom for 6-8 hours daily.
To further support the craft, an Incubation and Design Centre (IDC) was established in Venkatagiri in 2021, upskilling weavers to produce higher thread count saris. This initiative highlights the unique advantage of handlooms, as the finer yarn used in higher thread count saris would break on a power loom.
The revival of the Venkatagiri sari signifies a commitment to preserving traditional Indian crafts and ensuring their sustainability. By bridging the gap between consumers and weavers, promoting awareness of the intricate craftsmanship, and empowering artisans through skill development, the Venkatagiri sari stands poised to reclaim its rightful place as a cherished treasure, woven with the threads of heritage, artistry, and community.
