The Ultimate Guide to Hair Oil Massage: Expert Tips for Healthy, Happy Hair

For many of us, a hair oil massage is a cherished tradition passed down through generations. But how can we ensure we’re applying the oil in the most effective way? Even if you’ve been oiling your hair for years, it’s always helpful to refresh your knowledge and embrace best practices.

We spoke with Dr. Geetika Mittal Gupta, medical director of ISAAC Luxe and a strong advocate for hot oil treatments, to gain her expert insights.

The Power of a Gentle Scalp Massage:

Dr. Gupta emphasizes the importance of a gentle touch when applying oil. “A scalp massage helps boost blood circulation, which can promote hair growth and also induce relaxation. However, a vigorous champi (Indian head massage) can lead to hair breakage during and after the oil treatment. Use the tips of your fingers to gently massage the oil into your roots and scalp,” she advises.

A circular motion during the scalp massage is particularly beneficial for improving blood flow. You can also apply pressure using your hands in an L-shape. But remember, it’s crucial to avoid tangling your hair during the process, as this can cause breakage and even pull hair from its follicle.

Oiling Techniques for Optimal Absorption:

You can apply oil to your hair whether it’s damp or dry, but Dr. Gupta stresses the importance of clean hair and scalp. “If your hair and scalp are not clean, the oil won’t be able to penetrate properly,” she explains.

For heavier oils like coconut oil, applying them to dry hair is generally recommended. The larger molecules may not penetrate the shaft of wet hair as effectively.

To further enhance penetration, consider using warm oil. The liquefied formula can sink in more readily. “Heat in the form of a hot towel or warm hair oil increases the chances of absorption. You can warm up some oil in a bowl and apply it or use a hot towel on your hair after application,” Dr. Gupta suggests.

Determining the Right Amount of Oil:

The amount of oil you use depends on the specific oil, its purpose (a few drops as a serum or more as a mask), and the length and thickness of your hair. Dr. Gupta recommends starting with a few pumps or one to three palmfuls of oil for your scalp and one to two pumps for your strands, adjusting based on your hair’s density and texture.

Begin by massaging the oil into your scalp, then gently work it through your mid-lengths and ends. This is especially important if you color or chemically treat your hair, as it provides much-needed moisture.

Optimal Duration for Hair Oil Treatments:

While some individuals leave oil in their hair overnight, one to two hours is generally sufficient. Dr. Gupta cautions against overdoing it. “If you apply more oil than necessary, believing you need to coat every strand, you’ll need a similar amount of shampoo to remove it. This can lead to dryness, which is counterproductive. A little goes a long way,” she emphasizes.

Although many women in India oil their hair daily and then braid it, Dr. Gupta recommends limiting oil treatments to once or twice a week.

When to Avoid Oiling Your Hair:

It’s important to note that not everyone should oil their hair. Individuals with dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, or psoriasis should avoid oiling as it can exacerbate flaking, causing dandruff to cling to the scalp. In some cases, it can also lead to red patches, itching, inflammation, and other complications.

Tailoring Your Hair Oil Routine:

Consider whether your chosen hair oil is specifically addressing your individual hair concerns. Are you using a toner or scrub as part of your haircare routine? Consulting with a dermatologist can help ensure your routine is tailored to your specific needs and goals.

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