To the average person, look 29 from Prada’s Fall 2011 collection—a furry, sequined drop-waisted coat—might just be another piece in a fashion show. However, for Cal McNeil, the founder of Callen Archive, it holds a special place. This was the very first piece he purchased back in March 2023 for his ever-expanding collection of vintage fashion, spanning from 2010 to 2015.
McNeil has been teasing his archive on Instagram, but now he’s ready to unveil it at Ava in the Public Hotel in New York on September 4th. The event will feature one-third of his meticulously assembled collection, comprising 65 full looks and 27 partial ones from 23 brands across 40 collections.
The archive boasts an impressive array of pieces from renowned designers, including Marc Jacobs (including his work at Louis Vuitton), Rodarte, Altuzarra (where McNeil interned early in his career), Jil Sander during Raf Simons’ tenure, Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander McQueen, Versus by Christopher Kane, and Comme des Garçons. He even owns a significant portion of Prada’s Fall 2011 collection, including the iconic look 29 that sparked his journey.
McNeil’s vision is to share the historical significance of these pieces with the world. He envisions his archive being used for educational and cultural initiatives, research, and immersive experiences. Callen Archive serves as a poignant reminder that the most impactful vintage fashion collections often stem from a personal connection to the era in which those pieces were created. For McNeil, this connection was forged during his time at the University of Wisconsin-Eau Clair.
His day job as Director of Program Strategies at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) exposes him to fashion daily. Yet, founding the archive allowed him to indulge in a passion for collecting that began in his youth, fueled by a fascination with Beanie Babies and Barbie Spice Girls. The years between 2010 and 2015 proved pivotal for McNeil. During this period, he navigated the transition from college graduate to young professional, his love for fashion growing alongside his career. He poured over Tumblr, contributed to a local Wisconsin newspaper, watched live-streamed fashion shows, and devoured street style images from Tommy Ton and The Sartorialist. It was in this era that he began the hunt for pieces that defined his personal style and shaped his understanding of fashion.
McNeil’s collection grew beyond that initial Prada purchase, leading him to explore various resale platforms like 1stDibs and Vestiaire Collective. He’s managed to snag some of his most prized pieces for relatively modest prices, proving that patience and persistence can pay off. He even discovered a sheer Marc Jacobs Vuitton dress from Spring 2012 on Vestiaire Collective, hidden in a listing that only showed a small, transparent portion of the garment.
While his collection boasts many iconic pieces, one look remains elusive—the yellow suit worn by Abbey Lee Kershaw in the opening of Chanel’s resort 2012 show in the South of France.
The five years from 2010 to 2015 witnessed a groundbreaking shift in the fashion landscape, and Callen Archive captures its essence perfectly. This era marked the rise of young American designers like Rodarte, Altuzarra, and Proenza Schouler, all of whom inspired McNeil’s ambition to work for the CFDA. It also encompassed Phoebe Philo’s revolutionary years at Céline, whose influence continues to resonate today.
McNeil’s collection reflects a passion for these designers who helped him develop a complete understanding of the world and the fashion industry. Each piece holds a personal connection and a nostalgic reminder of his younger self. The Callen Archive serves as a testament to the enduring power of fashion and the stories it tells, a testament to a young man’s passion for preserving those stories for generations to come.
