The White House Historical Association, in partnership with New York University’s Steinhardt School of Culture, Education, and Human Development, has unveiled a captivating new digital exhibit titled “Black Cloth: Mourning Dress and Drapery at the White House.” This immersive exhibit delves into the poignant traditions of mourning attire and decor at the White House, spanning a significant period from the mid-19th to mid-20th centuries.
The exhibit traces the somber rituals associated with the deaths of eight presidents who tragically lost their lives while in office: William Henry Harrison, Zachary Taylor, Abraham Lincoln, James Garfield, William McKinley, Warren G. Harding, Franklin D. Roosevelt, and John F. Kennedy. It explores the profound role black cloth played in both public and private mourning practices during these pivotal moments in American history.
The exhibit is the culmination of a semester-long internship awarded by the White House Historical Association to Rachel Bellis, a talented NYU Costume Studies student. Bellis’s dedication to research and her passion for mourning fashion shine through in her meticulous curation. She collaborated closely with the Association’s David M. Rubenstein National Center for White House History and its Digital Library team to bring this impactful story to life.
“Black Cloth: Mourning Dress and Drapery at the White House” reveals the intricate details of how black fabric transformed the White House into a symbol of national grief. The exhibit showcases the draping of black cloth on both the exterior and interior of the White House, alongside the somber black mourning gowns and accessories worn by the First Ladies.
Bellis’s research uncovered a fascinating historical detail: an 1893 appropriations act that prohibited mourning drapery on federal buildings after President James Garfield’s death. This practice continued for decades until First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy broke with tradition and draped the North Door and State Floor of the White House in black fabric following President John F. Kennedy’s assassination.
Adding to the exhibit’s rich historical tapestry is a newly digitized image from the William McKinley Presidential Library and Museum, featuring First Lady Ida McKinley in her mourning attire. This image is now available online for the first time, offering a poignant glimpse into a pivotal moment in history.
“During my research process for this exhibit, I learned so much about how mourning was conducted at the White House for the eight presidents who passed away in office,” shared Bellis. “The rituals surrounding mourning were very complex in the nineteenth century—it was fascinating to learn how those rules changed over time, but black cloth continued to play an important role. Looking at the fashions and textiles that the White House used for mourning the eight presidents who died in office, it is clear to me that black fabric was a key element tying together all those historic moments of grief.”
Stewart McLaurin, President of the White House Historical Association, praised Bellis’s dedication and the exhibit’s impact: “Rachel’s dedicated research has opened a new door into the history of White House mourning traditions and has provided valuable knowledge that can be used for years to come.”
Rachel Bellis, currently pursuing an MA in Costume Studies at NYU’s Steinhardt School, possesses a deep-rooted fascination with mourning fashion. Her previous research on a mourning gown at Kingsland Manor, a historic home in New Jersey, served as inspiration for her work on this significant exhibit. Bellis’s internship with the White House Historical Association spanned from January through August 2024, during which she diligently immersed herself in historical research and curatorial practices.
“Black Cloth: Mourning Dress and Drapery at the White House” offers a moving and insightful look into the somber traditions of mourning at the White House. This digital exhibit serves as a powerful reminder of the enduring role of black cloth in American history, serving as a symbol of grief, respect, and remembrance.
