The Alaïa show at the Guggenheim Museum in New York City was a spectacle unlike any other. It was a love letter to American fashion, a celebration of iconic designers, and a testament to the creative vision of Pieter Mulier, Alaïa’s artistic director.
The show began with a playful exchange on Instagram, where the museum admired a sculptural dress from Mulier’s previous collection. This sparked a conversation and ultimately, an invitation for Alaïa to showcase its latest collection within the iconic Frank Lloyd Wright-designed building. This was the first-ever runway show to take place within the Guggenheim, making the event even more special.
The crowd was a testament to the allure of Alaïa and Mulier’s talent, with celebrities like Stephanie Seymour, Liv Tyler, Greta Lee, and Lewis Hamilton filling the soaring room. The excitement reached fever pitch when Rihanna arrived, prompting the klieg lights to illuminate the runway as the models began their walk down the famous spiral.
Mulier’s collection was a masterful blend of Alaïa’s signature style and a deep appreciation for American fashion icons. He drew inspiration from designers like Halston, Pauline Trigère, and Charles James, reinterpreting their classic silhouettes with a modern twist. The show featured brushed shearling chubbies, micro-pleated dresses, bandeaus, and sweatpants that echoed the ease and luxury of American style.
The collection also incorporated a playful nod to the iconic ’80s fashion scene. The models wore gold chain necklaces that resembled wired headphones, bringing Alaïa’s aesthetic down to the streets. This was a clever touch from a designer known for his attention to detail. Mulier even hosted a private viewing at the Brant Foundation, showcasing never-before-seen photographic reproductions of Andy Warhol’s captures from Alaïa’s 1982 show at the Palladium nightclub. This nostalgic touch brought back a legendary fashion moment and further emphasized Mulier’s fascination with American fashion history.
The show was a resounding success, solidifying Mulier’s position as a leading force in the fashion world. His talent and vision are undeniable, and his work for Alaïa has reinvigorated the brand with a fresh, contemporary perspective. While whispers of Mulier being a potential candidate for the top job at Chanel have surfaced, many hope he’ll continue his remarkable work at Alaïa for some time to come. His work is too good, and his passion for fashion is too evident to be stifled by the demands of a larger brand. The world of fashion awaits to see what he will do next.
