The Republic of Congo, often overshadowed by its war-torn neighbor, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), is a hidden gem in Central Africa. While the mention of “Congo” often conjures images of conflict, the Republic of Congo offers a different story – a tale of untouched wilderness, breathtaking biodiversity, and the chance to encounter some of Africa’s most elusive creatures.
My journey began in Brazzaville, the country’s capital, where the pervasive misconception about the Congo was readily apparent. “Are you sure it’s safe?” my friends asked, echoing the concerns of many. But the truth is, the Republic of Congo, while facing its own challenges, is a haven of untouched beauty, waiting to be discovered.
My adventure took me to the heart of this untouched wilderness, the Odzala-Kokoua National Park, a sprawling expanse of savannas, swamps, and dense rainforest larger than Belgium. This park, one of Africa’s oldest, is a biodiversity hotspot, home to an estimated 440 bird species, over 4500 plant types, and a mind-boggling array of mammals.
The park is a haven for rare forest elephants, elusive jungle-dwelling bongo antelopes, and an incredible diversity of primates, including chimpanzees, golden-bellied guenons, and the captivating putty-nosed monkey. But my primary mission was to encounter the critically endangered western lowland gorilla, a species that thrives in this corner of Congo.
The next morning, armed with a machete and fueled by anticipation, I ventured deep into the forest with gorilla tracker Grace Lepale. The air buzzed with the sounds of the jungle – the screeches of gray parrots, the incessant chirping of cicadas. We followed barely-there paths, our senses alert for any sign of the gorillas. Finally, Lepale led us through a tangle of vegetation and into a clearing. A family of seven gorillas, led by a silverback whose weight sagged a branch beneath him, was having breakfast. They were oblivious to our presence, their powerful fingers plucking fruit and sending leaves raining down like confetti. We watched, mesmerized, until they disappeared one by one into the undergrowth.
This extraordinary encounter was made possible by Spanish primatologist Magda Bermejo, a world authority on western lowland gorillas. Through years of dedicated research, Bermejo habituated several groups of gorillas to human presence, not only for scientific research but also to support sustainable, low-impact tourism initiatives like those run by Kamba African Rainforest Experiences.
Kamba’s operation is a testament to the power of responsible tourism. Their luxurious lodges, nestled deep within the rainforest, offer an unparalleled experience while contributing directly to wildlife conservation and community development. The proceeds from tourism fund vital conservation efforts, ensuring the long-term protection of this fragile ecosystem.
Beyond the gorillas, the allure of Odzala lies in its raw, untamed beauty. Moving through the dense canopy felt like walking through a cathedral, a sense of awe and tranquility washing over me. The silence was broken only by the sounds of nature, a symphony of bird calls, rustling leaves, and the distant calls of unseen creatures.
My journey continued with a kayak trip down the Lekoli River to Kamba’s Lango Lodge, where I joined a bai walk, a trek through the marshy clearings that serve as vital watering holes for the forest’s inhabitants. Here, I saw firsthand the impact of forest elephants, whose powerful feet have carved out these swampy paths over centuries. The air was thick with the scent of damp earth and decaying vegetation, and the ground was littered with fresh hippo dung.
As we navigated through this eerie, silent landscape, our guide, Pedro Lopes, cautioned us to tread lightly. Despite their size, the hippos and elephants could appear from seemingly nowhere. The silence allowed us to truly immerse ourselves in the environment, to savor the sights, sounds, and smells of this unique wilderness.
Our patience was finally rewarded when we encountered a lone elephant, a magnificent tusker emerging from the jungle fringe. We held our breath as Lopes guided us out of the wind’s direction, avoiding any human scent that might startle the beast. This encounter, though fleeting, was a testament to the power of responsible wildlife viewing.
As I sat on the verandah of Lango Lodge, overlooking the bai, a sense of gratitude washed over me. My days in Odzala-Kokoua had been a powerful reminder of the beauty and fragility of the natural world, a testament to the transformative power of travel.
This experience, like many encounters with true wilderness, comes at a cost. A trip to Congo, with its remote location and unique requirements, is not for the faint of heart or the budget-conscious traveler. But for those seeking an adventure off the beaten path, a chance to immerse themselves in a world untouched by mass tourism, it is a journey worth every penny.
In the vast expanse of the Congo Basin, a world exists that is both humbling and inspiring, a reminder of the vital importance of preserving our planet’s remaining wild places.
