Mimi Haddon, a Los Angeles-based photographer, costume designer, educator, and author, describes her first encounter with Palace Costume as “love at first sight.” Twenty years ago, a stylist friend introduced her to this hidden gem, and she was immediately captivated by its vast collection of vintage clothing. Haddon’s fascination with Palace Costume led her to embark on a photographic passion project, documenting its vintage swimwear collection. These images eventually blossomed into a stunning book titled “Palace Costume: Inside Hollywood’s Best Kept Secret,” featuring interviews with some of Hollywood’s most prominent costume designers.
Founded by Melody Barnett in the late 1960s, Palace Costume began as a shoppable emporium called Crystal Palace, housed in a former chandelier shop. Over the years, the shop relocated and eventually became Palace Costume, focusing exclusively on rentals for discerning Hollywood costumers and stylists. A pivotal moment in Palace Costume’s history occurred when Anthea Sylbert, a costume designer working on the iconic film “Chinatown,” encouraged Barnett to transition to a rentals-only model. Sylbert, who went on to win the 1975 Academy Award for Best Costume Design for her work on the film, recognized the potential of Palace Costume’s extensive collection. Barnett took Sylbert’s advice to heart, and thus began Palace Costume’s enduring legacy of providing wardrobe departments with the perfect pieces to tell stories through clothing.
Palace Costume has quietly played a pivotal role in some of our most beloved on-screen works, contributing to the wardrobes of iconic characters. Margot Robbie’s Shannon Tate in “Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood” sported boyish baby tees, while Brad Pitt wore Hawaiian cabana shirts, both sourced from Palace Costume. The petticoated party frocks worn by Betty Draper (January Jones) in “Mad Men” and the Mexican-embroidered dresses worn by Salma Hayek’s Frida in the film “Frida” were also part of Palace Costume’s collection. Even Halle Berry’s go-go girl outfits in “Frankie and Alice” featured pieces from this vintage treasure trove.
Haddon’s initial photographic project evolved into a promotional calendar for Palace Costume, and eventually, it grew into the book that celebrates the emporium’s unique allure. Flipping through the pages of “Palace Costume: Inside Hollywood’s Best Kept Secret” offers a glimpse into the vintage wonderland that awaits within. Over 30,000 square feet of space are meticulously filled from floor to ceiling with over 500,000 items, a testament to Barnett’s discerning eye and dedication to preserving fashion history.
The book features insightful interviews with several notable costume designers who have relied on Palace Costume’s vast collection. Academy Award-winning costume designer Mark Bridges, known for his work on “The Artist” and “Phantom Thread,” describes Palace Costume as a place where “extraordinary ordinary” items can be found. He notes that the 1920s men’s A-shirts he used in “The Artist” are just one example of the unexpected treasures that can be unearthed at Palace Costume.
In the book, Melody Barnett recounts the early days of Crystal Palace, describing the excitement of the time and the shop’s eclectic clientele, which included music, rock, film, and fashion royalty. Lee Ramstead, a partner at Palace Costume, shares his vision for the future, emphasizing the importance of collecting designer items while avoiding fast-fashion pieces.
The stories shared by other costume designers paint a vivid picture of the impact Palace Costume has had on Hollywood. Arianne Phillips, known for her work on films like “Walk the Line” and “The People vs. Larry Flynt,” describes her fondness for the pieces she has used in various films. Ruth E. Carter, the Oscar-winning costume designer behind films like “Black Panther” and “Do the Right Thing,” fondly recalls the shop’s vast array of options. Sandy Powell, the celebrated costume designer behind films like “The Aviator” and “Shakespeare in Love,” notes the crucial role Palace Costume played in helping her achieve a vintage aesthetic on a budget.
Through these interviews and Haddon’s captivating photography, “Palace Costume: Inside Hollywood’s Best Kept Secret” offers a unique window into the world of vintage fashion and its enduring impact on the entertainment industry. It is a testament to the enduring power of style, a celebration of the past, and a reminder that even the most ordinary items can hold extraordinary stories.
