Phoebe Philo, the designer known for her minimalist aesthetic and cult following, has made a calculated move in her fashion journey. Since launching her eponymous brand last fall, she’s adopted a deliberate PR strategy, opting for a low-key approach. Beyond a single interview in The New York Times, she’s remained shrouded in an air of mystery, absent from social media and the bustling party circuit. Now, however, she’s stepping into the spotlight in a way that’s as unexpected as it is impactful.
This week, Philo’s presence in the fashion world was announced with two significant events. AnOther Magazine, a respected publication known for its artistic approach, revealed that Philo had art directed and styled their latest issue. The cover, featuring a model wielding a handsaw, is a bold and unexpected statement, signaling a departure from traditional fashion imagery. This move was swiftly followed by the launch of the third edit of her collection, available both online and in select stores like 10 Corso Como in Milan and Bergdorf Goodman in New York.
This third edit marks a significant milestone for Philo, with the brand describing it as the “completion of the first body of work.” It’s not just a collection; it’s a curated statement that reflects her signature style. Pieces like scarf tops and loose-fitting trousers with back zippers, already embraced by the fashion world, have become key trends for Spring 2025 collections. In stores alongside other brands’ fall deliveries, her latest edit introduces a hero piece: a robe coat in brindle shearling, hinting at a focus on texture and print. This focus is further emphasized with a blanket wrap in brindle mohair wool and jeans featuring the signature back zips in a warm brown acid wash.
Philo has also continued to explore the concept of versatility, designing trousers with a detachable front apron. This clever detail transforms everyday work pants into something special for evening wear. She’s also introduced a utility shirt and cargos in luscious cream silk satin, seamlessly blurring the lines between day and night. Though not featured in the current press images, Philo also includes a couple of intriguing back-baring pieces, one a candy floss silk satin top and the other a mini dress with 80s shoulders and a nipped waist in acid wash cotton.
In many of the photographs, new pieces are styled with previously released items, a deliberate choice reflecting Philo’s previously stated aim “to create a product which reflects permanence.” This strategic approach, combined with the collection’s strong presence in key stores and the attention-grabbing cover of AnOther Magazine, has cemented Philo’s position as a force to be reckoned with in the fashion world.
As this first “body of work” comes to a close, one question remains: What’s next for Philo? The recent announcement that Sarah Burton has been named creative director of Givenchy adds another woman designer to the Paris fashion calendar next March. Could Philo join her and stage a show of her own? Her moves are always deliberate, but one thing is certain: we’ll be watching closely.
