Imagine this: you’ve just returned home from a night out at the club. On your way to your apartment, you grabbed a quick bite from the corner deli – a classic New York “chopped cheese” if you’re lucky enough to find one open so late. You settle down on the couch, still in your clubbing attire, and indulge in your late-night feast. The next morning, you wake up, surrounded by the remnants of the night – a crumpled foil wrapper and the lingering scent of the deli. You’re relieved to find your phone, although it’s out of battery, and your clothes, while a bit wrinkled, are still intact. This is the scene designer Neil Grotzinger envisioned when creating their spring collection, inspired by the creatures of the city’s nocturnal world. Forget vampires, Batman, or even Amy Adams in that iconic Tom Ford film; Grotzinger’s focus was on the individuals who thrive in the dark, pulsating heart of club and rave culture – those who truly come alive when the lights are off and the music is booming.
Grotzinger expertly manipulated silhouettes, adding weight to hems without adding actual bulk. This was achieved through godets – triangular fabric inserts – strategically placed in the skirts of flowing club dresses and pant legs. These godets, coupled with a panel connecting both legs from under the crotch, created an illusion of heft and a distinct, almost grotesque yet undeniably charming creature-like quality. This intentional oxymoron was central to Grotzinger’s vision. “I wanted to create a creature proportion in response to how heavy and intense this [party] culture has gotten,” they explained, “to the point where going to Basement [an underground techno club in Maspeth, New York] or something is a sort of ceremony.” Grotzinger understands that experiencing extended periods on the dance floor can be a cathartic, even transformative experience, a unique space for personal epiphanies.
Beyond the exaggerated silhouettes, Grotzinger aimed to create the illusion of these creatures leaning forward, ever so slightly. It’s that subtle movement, a chaotic yet repetitive dance, where the torso sways and arms wiggle while the feet remain grounded. This captivatingly awkward style of movement is what Grotzinger sought to emulate, resulting in a playful yet slightly severe aesthetic that truly works.
The prints featured in this collection are equally captivating, capturing Grotzinger’s own nocturnal adventures. Blurry photographs taken during late-night Uber rides home, glimpses of buildings under construction, and a close-up of a glass case of poppers – those colorful, nitrous oxide capsules found in New York’s sex shops and, yes, occasionally in delis – all come together to paint a picture of the irrational reality of these nightlife dwellers, highlighting the stark contrast between their lives in and out of the club.
To fully embody the spirit of these nightlife creatures, Grotzinger even pressed and stitched down the creases and wrinkles that would naturally occur after a night of dancing and sleeping in your clothes. This meticulous attention to detail further underscores the designer’s commitment to capturing the essence of this subculture. The button shirts in the collection are particularly noteworthy, offering a familiar yet puzzling aesthetic. They feel natural when worn but appear strange to an outsider, much like the allure of nightlife itself – a world that captivates its devotees while remaining somewhat elusive to those outside its sphere.
