While the fashion world’s attention was on the New York runways earlier this month, Prada had its sights set on the Mediterranean Sea off the coast of Barcelona. The Milanese house was locked in a fierce battle for the Louis Vuitton Cup, the qualifying series for the America’s Cup, the oldest international sporting event in the world. They were aiming for their sixth attempt at winning the coveted trophy.
Fashion and sailing are not traditionally intertwined. They only intersect during the revival of preppy deck shoes or in the glamorous attire of onboard parties. However, since 1997, fueled by the passion of Patrizio Bertelli, the Executive Chairman, Prada has been steadfastly competing in the pinnacle of yacht racing, striving for victory. This year, their latest AC75 boat, Luna Rossa, christened by Miuccia Prada herself at its launch earlier this year, has faced its fair share of drama, narrowly avoiding a lightning strike during the opening races.
The ultimate goal is to help the Italian team achieve victory, marking their first Cup win against the current defender, New Zealand. But Prada’s involvement in sailing has indirectly influenced the house’s navigation through the tumultuous waters of fashion. In 1997, while preparing for their first America’s Cup campaign, Prada established the Luna Rossa team, simultaneously launching the Linea Rossa line, designed for the sailors.
“Prada applied the knowledge gained from developing technical sportswear for the Luna Rossa team, fusing it with the house’s aesthetic, to create the Linea Rossa collection,” said Lorenzo Bertelli, CMO and Head of CSR for the Prada Group, in an email. He continued, “The application of technical fabrics and construction techniques, typically used for sportswear, to everyday formal wardrobes, reflects Prada’s unconventional spirit.”
Especially in menswear, the term “technical” often refers to highly functional garments created using advanced technology. Linea Rossa’s clothing, footwear, and eyewear are all rooted in performance-driven sailing wear. This means that the product’s functionality and durability are considerably high-spec, leaning closer to industrial design than fashion pieces.
Despite its functional focus, Linea Rossa has never been a stranger to the runway, the house’s most prestigious stage. In 1999, Linea Rossa was featured in the mainline menswear and womenswear runways, making a comeback in 2000. Following its relaunch in 2018, it again took its place in both collections. It reappeared on the runway at the Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Shanghai and most recently in the Spring/Summer 2021 menswear collection titled “The Show That Never Happened” that was presented during the pandemic.
Looking at the team’s performance in the qualifying races, this year’s Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli appears to be a strong contender for the America’s Cup final against the defending champion, New Zealand. A challenger’s victory would not only mark a new era for Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli but also a significant turning point for Linea Rossa.
