This season’s London Fashion Week has seen a diverse range of show venues, from the grand Old Bailey to the iconic British Museum. However, none have been quite as unique and intimate as Paolo Carzana’s choice of location: his own back garden in Hackney. For Carzana, this space represents a sanctuary, a far cry from the two years he spent living in social housing. “I have a partner now, and we managed to find this place to rent in Hackney; got really lucky with getting it,” he shared with Vogue via Zoom, days before his show. “We’ve got this beautiful back garden that we share with the neighbours. I never in a million years would have dreamt I would have that.” This personal connection is why Carzana chose to bring showgoers into his haven, a deliberate escape from the usual fashion week fanfare. “I feel it’s completely away from what is [typically] considered a fashion show,” he explains. “I’m not interested in influencers; I’m not interested in any of that. I [want] to offer a much more sentimental experience that isn’t about smoke and mirrors.” The show came together rather quickly, with Carzana enlisting his parents to help with the garden and producer Laura Holmes, whom he met through the Paul Smith Foundation’s residency program, offering her expertise. Carzana is open about the financial realities of starting a fashion label, especially with no safety net. “To be honest, the only way I’m able to present is from the unbelievable amount of support that I have been given through Sarabande, the Paul Smith Foundation, through NewGen,” he says. Carzana’s desire to do things differently is reflected in the title of his latest collection, “How To Attract Mosquitoes.” “[Last season’s collection] was loosely set in heaven; this one [sees us] going to hell,” he explains. The show opened with the story of Narcissus, who famously drowns after falling in love with his reflection – a powerful metaphor for the fashion industry’s, and the world’s, obsession with vanity. “It feels as if we have gone back to a really strong sense of vanity and not caring for others, not caring for the Earth, caring [only] for ourselves,” Carzana continues. With A-listers like Zendaya and Michaela Coel wearing his designs on the red carpet, one might expect Carzana to lean towards a more commercially appealing direction. However, he remains true to his own vision, with this collection being one of the most raw and authentic yet. The collection features layers of organic silk organza and bamboo jersey, naturally dyed in shades of blue, brown and pink, and hand-painted daffodil prints. “I don’t want any feeling of finesse; for me, it has to be incredibly raw,” he emphasizes. It’s refreshing to encounter a designer like Carzana, who dares to challenge the norm despite the obstacles he faces. “I’m only doing this because I believe so strongly in my heart that I was meant to do it, and I will work it out,” Carzana concludes. Carzana’s Hackney garden show stands as a testament to his unique vision and commitment to creating meaningful and sustainable fashion. It’s a reminder that the most beautiful and impactful stories often come from the most unexpected places.
Paolo Carzana’s Intimate Fashion Show in His Hackney Garden: A Raw and Refreshing Take on the Industry
