What happens when the classic Damier design of Louis Vuitton, the well-known checkered pattern created by its founder in 1888, is applied to a high jewelry line? The answer is Le Damier de Louis Vuitton, the new collection presented by Francesca Amfitheatrof, the brilliant artistic director of watchmaking and jewelry for the maison. Composed of 12 pieces, including rings, necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, Le Damier reinterprets the iconic geometric motif in metals and precious stones. “It transcends generations and genders,” says Amfitheatrof enthusiastically. “Le Damier de Louis Vuitton embodies everything modern jewelry should be.”
A decisive cultural moment in the history of jewelry served as a starting point for the designer. When, in 1978, the single-strand diamond bracelet worn by tennis player Chris Evert flew off her wrist at the US Open, the match was halted until the jewel was found. Thus, the “tennis bracelet” was born as we know it today. Amfitheatrof, praised for her revolutionary way of breaking traditional codes of high jewelry, decided to push the boundaries of this traditional piece: “I wanted to reimagine the movement of the classic tennis bracelet and create modern, continuous pieces that flow with the skin.” From this comes the Le Damier tennis bracelet, a lesson in pure everyday luxury, made with two rows of diamonds set, either on yellow gold or white gold. Its exquisite craftsmanship comes as no surprise. However, the fluidity of the piece, a kind of liquid flexibility that is not usually associated with metal, is the real surprise factor. The piece is designed to perfectly mold to the shape of the wrist like a second skin. It’s a tennis bracelet, yes, but different and unique: “We’ve taken this delicate classic piece and turned it into a modern jewel that’s always in motion, always on the wrist, everyday, genderless, ageless, with a touch of avant-garde. They’re pieces you’ll never want to take off. Not even naked,” explains Amfitheatrof.
This 24/7 spirit – from the continuity of the design to the way it’s worn – extends to the entire Le Damier collection. The rings, luxurious pieces that aspire to become the new Eternity bands, come in two different styles: one with two rows of diamonds and another, more geometric, with four. The round pendant, also sprinkled with diamonds, is threaded on a thin yellow gold chain; and the earrings, at first glance simple yellow gold hoops, have embedded diamonds that alternate in the manner of the brand’s characteristic checkerboard. Because, “while it’s a diamond collection, the stones aren’t the most important thing,” the designer clarifies. “What’s important is the pattern they create. If Louis Vuitton were alive, I think he’d be very proud to see his 1888 creation transformed into gold and diamond jewelry. The fluidity of the maison’s Damier print is now worn on the skin. It’s a modern and current classic that can accompany you always.”
However, while Amfitheatrof clearly highlights Le Damier’s vocation to become a family heirloom – the impressive craftsmanship of the pieces well deserves to be passed down from generation to generation – the way to wear it doesn’t require as much care: “These pieces are sensual but casual. And they’re for everyone.” So, how does she advise wearing them? The designer doesn’t miss a detail: “Long live layering! I love bracelets. They’re very fine and sensual and feel great on the skin, so they’re ideal for stacking and mixing different colors and sizes of gold.” This contemporary and inclusive vision brings a breath of fresh air to a world (that of high jewelry) often stuck in tradition. For Amfitheatrof, the key is to look back in order to know how to look forward: “Le Damier de Louis Vuitton is a creation for a new era. It’s a modern collection, yes, but it’s meant to last forever.” This article was originally published on Vogue.co.uk.
