The fashion industry has become a captivating subject in recent media, with television shows like Apple TV+’s “The New Look” and “La Maison” and Hulu’s “Becoming Lagerfeld” exploring its glamorous world. This trend has extended to our bookshelves as well, with three new books exploring the stylish machinations of the fashion world, all focusing on one key element: the American fashion industry. These books, each dedicated to a different slice of the American fashion pie, offer a unique insight into the late bloomer among the four fashion capitals, New York’s garment district business.
’American Fashion’ by Natalie Nudell
Natalie Nudell’s “American Fashion” (Bloomsbury) delves into the history of the American fashion industry through the lens of Ruth Finley’s “Fashion Calendar.” This book builds upon Nudell’s previous work on the documentary “Calendar Girl” (2020) about Finley, who meticulously documented the fashion world’s happenings in her little pink booklet, the “Fashion Calendar,” starting in 1941. The “Fashion Calendar” is a fascinating time capsule, capturing the ebb and flow of the industry through its listings. Examining its grids allows for a deeper understanding of the American fashion industry’s history, revealing the rise and fall of labels, the evolution of fashion weeks, and the changing dynamics within the industry. Nudell’s research takes this exploration further, leveraging a massive digitization process that makes the trove of information published in every issue of the “Fashion Calendar” accessible online for free.
’Empresses of Seventh Avenue’ by Nancy McDonald
Long before Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri proclaimed “The Future Is Female” on T-shirts, the fashion industry was already a force driven by powerful women. “Empresses of Seventh Avenue” (St. Martin’s Publishing Group) by Nancy McDonald shines a light on the industry’s earliest movers and shakers, the women who helped shape the industry and championed real people over mannequins. From Edna Woolman Chase to Diana Vreeland, the book features a diverse cast of visionaries who left an indelible mark on American fashion. McDonald traces how the baton of American fashion was passed from generation to generation, driving the industry towards modernity, practicality, and a singular, stylish vision—the American Look. The book highlights the contributions of these remarkable women, emphasizing their pivotal role in building a billion-dollar industry that employs millions globally.
’Henri Bendel and the Worlds He Fashioned’ by Tim Allis
In a world where the retail landscape is constantly evolving, Tim Allis’s beautifully illustrated book takes us back to its golden age, chronicling the rise of Henry Bendel. Born into a Jewish family in Lafayette, Louisiana, Bendel rebranded himself as “Henri Bendel” and opened a storefront in Manhattan. This venture quickly transformed into a full-fledged fashion emporium, catering to a loyal clientele who often graced the International Best Dressed List. Allis’s book explores the origins of Bendel’s flagship store, which initially focused on millinery, and traces its growth under president Geraldine Stutz. By the 1960s, the iconic brown and white-striped awning on 57th Street had become a haven for young design talent, particularly after the store began offering floor space to designers through an open call. “Henri Bendel and the Worlds He Fashioned” provides a comprehensive account of the brand’s history, culminating in its closure in 2019 under the ownership of L Brands. While Bendel’s Manhattan location remains vacant, the brand’s legacy continues to inspire and resonate.
These three books offer a compelling glimpse into the history of the American fashion industry, highlighting the significant contributions of both individual visionaries and the evolving landscape of the industry itself. They provide a rich and insightful perspective on the past, present, and future of American fashion.
