For nearly eight decades, Brioni’s unparalleled Roman fatto a mano tailoring was exclusively reserved for men. But last year, creative director Norbert Stumpfl initiated a subtle shift, introducing a few reimagined feminine pieces into his designs. This season, Brioni took a bold step forward, debuting its first-ever standalone women’s collection.
The tour began in a corner of the new Brioni showroom, filled with mannequins. Stumpfl’s masterful creations, such as the floor-length wide-leg pant shape and the double-faced cotton trench coats, commanded attention. A wide-revere tuxedo, adorned with 8,000 meticulously tied Swarovski crystal knots, was a testament to the brand’s dedication to detail and craftsmanship. However, the real magic unfolded in the next room, where Stumpfl unveiled his womenswear through real-life models.
The luxuriously dense yet impossibly light ivory silk in a floor-length shirt dress with inside-stitched patch pockets came alive as it flowed gracefully across the room. A strong-shouldered, nipped-waist, long-skirted white double-breasted jacket, paired with a prominently collared blue shirt and those striking wide trousers in a vibrant tomato red, exuded an aura of powerful sophistication. And then, a single-vented white coat, a reinterpretation of the crystal-knotted tuxedo, this time featuring 18,600 crystals applied over 40 hours of handwork, stole the show, radiating an almost ethereal magnificence when worn by a real woman.
Following this press presentation, the showroom will remain open for Very Important Clients who are in town for the fashion shows. Stumpfl shared that they will be able to place made-to-measure orders, and eventually, he hopes clients will have the opportunity to visit the Brioni workrooms in Penne, Italy, to witness the creation of their garments firsthand. A special VIC event is also scheduled in two weeks at Bergdorf Goodman.
For garments of such exceptional quality, there is no substitute for experiencing them firsthand, touching their exquisite fabrics, and feeling their elegance envelop you. Brioni’s new women’s collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to unparalleled craftsmanship, luxurious materials, and empowering women through timeless, elegant fashion.
