For the past three seasons, Daniel Lee, the creative director of Burberry, has staged his shows in London’s parks. This season, he chose a decidedly different venue: the National Theatre. The shift from the open, verdant spaces of previous seasons to the stark, concrete world of Brutalist architecture was deliberate, a strategic move to amplify the impact of his collection and the installation created in collaboration with British artist Gary Hume.
Lee was inspired by Hume’s work, specifically a 1990 exhibition featuring cut pieces of industrial waterproof sheeting. This served as the foundation for the show’s set design. “It embodies the connection between Gary’s work and Burberry,” Lee explained. “It’s so functional, it’s protective in terms of its materiality. The National Theatre is a landmark of British arts and culture. The Brutalist architecture, the concrete, really compliments Gary’s work and makes the softness of the collection stand out.”
The show opened with a calming color palette that echoed the calming hues of the venue’s forest green installation. The collection’s core palette revolved around neutral ecru, terracotta, and khaki, accented with pops of lilac, pale blue, yellow, and pink. These soothing shades blended seamlessly with the color blocking elements inspired by Hume’s artistry.
Burberry’s iconic trench coat underwent a stunning transformation, emerging in a myriad of elegant new iterations. One standout piece featured a dramatic, wing-like silk organza faux feather trim at the collar, adding a touch of theatricality to the classic design. The trench coat’s signature umbrella yoke design was reimagined into flowing long dresses and blouses, showcasing graceful drapes that embody the collection’s core theme: elegance.
The brand’s deeply ingrained outdoor heritage was also evident. Parkas and capes were crafted with meticulous attention to detail, featuring washes, sun-bleached effects, and weather-resistant coatings, showcasing Burberry’s commitment to innovative materials and craftsmanship.
The iconic Burberry check made a bold appearance, taking center stage on car coats, field jackets, and cargo pants. A new addition to the brand’s coveted handbag lineup, the ‘Country’ bag, showcased the signature check pattern across its entire surface. Other notable pieces included a sky blue Prince of Wales check parka, summery striped blouses, daisy print coats, and sparkling sequin dresses, adding a touch of vibrancy to the collection.
“It’s about a lightness and elegance that feels summery,” Lee shared about the collection. “We want to make people feel good, feel confident.” The collection, as a whole, perfectly embodied that sentiment, offering a range of pieces designed to empower wearers with effortless sophistication.
The show drew a star-studded crowd, including British actor Barry Keoghan, South Korean actor Song Joong-ki, and Thai actor Bright. From Japan, Snow Man’s Koji Mukai and actress Asami Mizukawa graced the audience with their presence.
The night before the show, Burberry hosted a preview cocktail party for Gary Hume’s new exhibition, “Mirrors and other creatures,” and concluded the day with a lavish after-party celebrating the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week. The event brought together a vibrant mix of emerging and established British designers, industry insiders, and fashion enthusiasts, creating a palpable buzz of excitement. This celebratory season solidified Burberry’s position as a leading force in British fashion.
