Ferragamo’s archives hold a treasure trove of shoe designs, a legacy created by the founder Salvatore Ferragamo himself. These designs, numbering over 15,000, are more than just shoes; they are stories waiting to be told. Creative Director Maximilian Davis, in his latest collection, decided to focus on the narrative of dance, a theme that resonates deeply with the brand’s heritage.
His mood board featured a photograph of Salvatore fitting shoes on the legendary African American dancer and choreographer, Katherine Dunham, taken in 1950. Dunham, an anthropologist as well as a dancer, drew inspiration for her movements from her extensive research into traditional dances across the Caribbean islands. “There were so many points of connection,” said Davis, speaking of Dunham’s profound impact.
Davis also looked to photographs of ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, a renowned figure who graced the dance floor in Ferragamo shoes, alongside ballet images by the Dutch photographer Hans van Manen. Interestingly, a canvas painting by Italian artist Piero Manzoni also made it to the mood board. Davis was drawn to the tactile quality of the canvas, a departure from Manzoni’s more famous tin can works that defined his career.
The language of dance translated seamlessly into the codes of the house. The show opened with loose trench coats, their hips accentuated by belts. Available in a variety of hues, these trenches, alongside nylon field jackets and skirts, commanded attention throughout the first half of the show, evoking the alluring off-duty style of 80s ballet dancers, with Nureyev himself serving as a key inspiration.
The ultimate statement piece was an oversized black leather coat, its luxurious presence undeniable. Leggings, body foundations, and ribbon-adorned pointed-toe pumps were paired with cropped tops echoing the structure of a ballet bolero, creating a distinct dancer aesthetic.
From these foundational elements, Davis built upon a vibrant palette of sporty looks, striking silk knit dresses with signature draping and intricate knots, and a masterful fusion of classic dance elements with contemporary fashion sensibilities.
Parachute dresses that simultaneously concealed and subtly highlighted the body, knit dresses with organic stripes spiraling upwards, asymmetric dresses with a fitted silhouette, bags adorned with fringed details, and short pants paired with skirts – these were the building blocks of a collection that was both sensual and elegant, timeless yet modern.
Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, through the unique lens of dance, elevates the house’s codes to new heights, offering a compelling and captivating interpretation of timeless elegance.
