In a world facing immense socio-political and economic turmoil, this season’s fashion trends lean towards a peaceful protest, finding solace in softness and prettiness. These attributes, often found in lingerie, deeply inspire Ukrainian designer Anna October. Her designs resonate with a powerful message of feminine strength and liberation, as she stated, “My constant thinking is about the female body and femininity and how we can use clothes as liberating instruments.” October’s unwavering faith in the face of unimaginable challenges is truly remarkable, highlighting her resilience and artistic spirit.
Drawing inspiration from the calming rhythms of nature, October finds solace in gardening. This season, she embraces the concept of “life cycles,” where a garden “blooms, then it’s dying, then new things are coming.” This cyclical nature mirrors the world’s constant transformation, and October finds strength in creating beauty amidst the chaos. “I think that in times of big changes in the world, in times of cataclysms, the only way to keep sane and to keep growing as a human is to build something beautiful.”
This philosophy translates into a spring collection brimming with delicate details and a focus on the female form. Signature tulip bra details return, adorning silky bias-cut slip dresses. Tiny floral bead embroideries, as delicate as hand-painted porcelain, add a touch of exquisite artistry. A personal memory of Linden trees blossoming in May inspires a beautiful embroidery of the flower, weaving a personal narrative into the collection. Crochet dresses adorned with pendant blooms add a touch of ethereal elegance.
October seamlessly blends classic silhouettes with contemporary influences, resulting in a collection that feels timeless and relevant. Her continuous exploration of the bias-cut slip dress evokes a dialogue with legendary designer Madeleine Vionnet, constantly refining and evolving the design. A striking black and white number, reminiscent of a latter-day Joan Crawford, features a sensually sculpted back inspired by the architecture of Kiev. The overall aesthetic, while paying homage to vintage styles, feels refreshingly modern.
Playful elements are present, as seen in a meringue-like pink bustier paired with a full skirt, showcasing a romantic yet playful approach to fashion. The final three looks take on a more pared-back and sophisticated aesthetic. A gold knit dress, likened to a garment fit for Joan of Arc, is crafted from a delicate yarn that resembles metal mesh. A nearly sheer Japanese taffeta cape exudes a romantic yet restrained elegance.
Breaking away from her usual preference for floaty and slippery fabrics, October incorporates jersey in a long white dress with a tank silhouette. The fabric clings to the body, offering a different kind of sensuality compared to satin’s smooth glide. The dress’s triangular basque waistline and softly gathered fabric create a graceful and confident silhouette. This look embodies an invitation to dance through life with grace and strength.
Overall, Anna October’s spring collection is a testament to resilience, creativity, and the enduring power of feminine beauty. It’s a collection that invites us to find solace in softness, to embrace the cyclical nature of life, and to celebrate the strength and grace of the female form.
