Few newly appointed Creative Directors have achieved the success of Chloé’s Shemina Kamali. Part of her success stems from her rich history with the house. Taking the helm last year, Kamali has actually worked at Chloé twice before. She also shares a nationality with the brand’s former Creative Director, Karl Lagerfeld, both hailing from Germany. Lagerfeld, too, had two stints at Chloé, during the late 70s, creating impactful collections that defined the house’s tone and aesthetic. While Kamali shares a fascinating connection with Lagerfeld, it’s more than just her background that makes Chloé so appealing to the public. She is a confident, gut-driven designer, fueled by an innate instinct that seems to guide her success. This ability, a sort of magical intuition, has yielded some impressive results. Just last month, Vice President Kamala Harris wore a Kamali design, not once, but twice, during the Democratic National Convention. Kamali’s focus on a more casual Chloé The media’s intense focus might have added pressure to her second show. A second show, especially after a dazzling debut, often carries higher expectations and greater scrutiny. Yet, Kamali showed no signs of unease about the clothes and accessories she sent down the runway. “It was a fun season,” she said during a preview. “I was happy with the response to the first show and it gave me good energy. When you get good energy, you just want to give more. There are other ideas, other aspects of Chloé that I wanted to explore [this season].” The collection was a confident evolution of the more casual elements she introduced in her first collection, presented last February. The high-waisted flared denim was reminiscent of the jeans from Phoebe Philo’s Spring/Summer 2004 collection, while the flamingo swimwear recalled the sweet, playful looks of Stella McCartney’s tenure. These pieces, easily accessible compared to the elaborate ruffled and lace-laden looks worn by the front-row celebrities, are likely to become some of this season’s most popular items alongside the kitten-heeled jelly sandals. Drawing on her deep knowledge of Chloé’s history, Kamali, just as she did with her debut show, used that knowledge to inform the looks she presented this season. Evidence of this can be seen in the studio, where mood boards are pinned with photos of Lagerfeld’s collections. The most influential Lagerfeld designs were the waist-shaper from Spring/Summer 1977 and the lace bloomers from Spring/Summer 1978. Both pieces hold the potential to redefine the way young women think about “sexy fashion.” Robust cotton and soft suede and leather power shoulders with generous ruffles, cascading from the shoulder line, add a lightness to these heavy pieces, seemingly redefining “sexy” as well. Freshness and lightness are the hallmarks of Chloé, and Kamali skillfully balances both. Flowing chiffons make up the asymmetrical floral ruffled dresses that are a sight to behold when caught in the wind. They hold a charm that will appeal not only to Chloé-loving It-girls, but also to those who usually shy away from florals and frills. How they will be styled, though, remains to be seen. Next Spring/Summer is already looking promising.
Chloé’s New Creative Director, Shemina Kamali, Is a Rising Star: A Look at Her Spring/Summer 2025 Collection
