Duckie Brown’s Steven Cox found himself contemplating the circle, a symbol of both beginnings and endings, of infinity. This profound thought sparked a desire to simplify, to reduce fashion to its essence. “This season, I thought, let’s simplify this: circle, square, T-shirt, jeans,” Cox explained at the Duckie Brown studio. He laid out a bolt of Japanese denim and, with a flourish, drew a giant circle around himself, channeling the spirit of Jackson Pollock. “Then I realized I could’ve just put a pin on it and just gone around it, but I was an idiot and I just did a freehand circle and it was beautiful,” he admitted, a hint of playful self-deprecation in his voice. This circle became the cornerstone of the collection, transforming into a pair of jeans whose curves flowed seamlessly from the body. Paired with a classic, fitted jacket, they formed the heart of the collection, exuding an air of both simplicity and elegance.
Cox continued to find inspiration in the everyday. While riding the subway, he and Daniel Silver, his creative partner, spotted a skateboarder sporting the classic layered look: a short-sleeve T-shirt over a long-sleeve T-shirt. “How fabulous is that?” Cox thought. And fabulous it was, as Duckie Brown translated this street style into a series of luxurious tees—boxy white chiffon tees screen printed with the bold “DUCKIE BROWN” logo, layered over long-sleeve yellow chiffon tees. The simplicity of these pieces sparked an undeniable desire; the Duckie Brown chiffon logo tee became a must-have.
Even the classic Duckie Brown suit received a makeover, transformed into a delicate vision in pink chiffon. To counterbalance the earthy roots of the collection, Cox introduced a range of exquisitely embellished fabrics. Pink ostrich feathers adorned a long, open-front jacket, while gray ostrich feathers graced an easy pullover. A sweater, painstakingly hand-beaded in a monochrome pattern, stood as a testament to meticulous craftsmanship. Silver sequin trousers shimmered with a touch of glamour, while a white lace guipure blouse and matching apron dress added a touch of ethereal beauty.
Duckie Brown has never shied away from drama, and this collection was no exception. The designers imbued each piece with a larger-than-life zest, encouraging wearers to embrace beautiful clothes for the sheer joy of it, not because the occasion demanded it. This playful spirit was evident in the reproduction of a top coat that once belonged to Cox’s “Grandpa Bill.” Crafted in simple black organza, the coat was devoid of buttons, padding, and unnecessary seams. It was a triumph of lightness and elegance, a subtle act of subversion.
The collection’s “finale” piece, a sculptural, ruffled jacket-cape, was a testament to Cox’s artistic vision. Hand-constructed in the studio, it showcased a unique approach to structure and form. “I asked our pattern maker to cut me the pieces of a double breasted jacket—I think I just wanted to do something on the stand,” Cox explained. The “ruffles” were not sewn closed, but left raw and hand-stitched in tiny bows. “I think it was an art project, but it’s also a progression,” Cox concluded. “I don’t know whether this is going to inform the next collection, or where I’m heading, but there’s some structure, I suppose.” It was a fitting end to a collection that celebrated both structure and freedom, a testament to the ongoing evolution of Duckie Brown.
