This season, Dior took its runway show beyond the familiar Tuileries Garden, choosing the prestigious Rodin Museum as its backdrop. The entrance was adorned with a striking blue motif resembling waves, upon which a single eye gazed intently, drawing the audience in. The interior of the venue was bathed in shades of blue, with a monumental archway spanning 70 meters, showcasing a powerful message: “Nurturing a strong mind and a strong body is the highest work of art I can create.”
Prior to the show, a teaser video revealed that the inspiration for the collection stemmed from Monsieur Dior’s creation of the “Amazone” suit, inspired by his mother’s riding attire. This marked the beginning of Dior’s foray into sportswear, culminating in the launch of Dior Sport in 1962 by Marc Bohan, featuring ski wear and other athletic pieces.
The teaser hinted at a sporty collection, possibly centered around swimwear, given the watery ambiance depicted. The lights dimmed, and a woman with a powerful physique emerged, holding a bow. She strode down the runway, entering the glass-enclosed archway, where a target emblazoned with a single eye awaited. With a swift motion, she released an arrow, striking the target with precision.
This dramatic performance marked the unveiling of the first look: a swimsuit-inspired garment, with a single arm bared like an archer’s, a sleek bag slung across the body. The outfit was predominantly monochrome, with a sporty white line running across it. The initial looks continued in this vein, featuring jackets with one shoulder bared and pieces that evoked swimwear, biker styles, and ski wear.
Upon closer examination, the seven white lines became apparent as forming the iconic “DIOR” logo.
At the finale, the show’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and the archer, Sag Napoli, stood side by side as the show concluded.
The starting point for the collection, according to Dior, was the 1951-52 Autumn/Winter haute couture “Amazone” dress. Several dresses in the collection featured a similar neckline design, prompting a deeper exploration of the Amazons, a legendary tribe of female warriors from ancient Greek mythology. Known for their equestrian skills and prowess with the bow, they wore asymmetric draped clothing, armor, and harnesses, facilitating their riding abilities. Their image heavily influenced the collection.
The archer who captivated the audience was Italian artist Sag Napoli, chosen to embody the modern Amazon. Her performance, titled “A heart in one hand, a bow in the other,” was an integral part of the show’s set design. The performance accompanied a textual quote: “I dedicate myself entirely to the tools of shooting.”
In the immediate aftermath of World War II, Monsieur Dior empowered women with the freedom of movement in his designs. Marc Bohan, who created the logo print used in the collection in the early 1970s, further expanded upon this idea. Today, sportswear is a ubiquitous element of our wardrobes. Maria Grazia Chiuri, while preserving the feminine softness that defines Dior, has painted a more aggressive image of womanhood. Currently, the “La Galerie Dior” is showcasing the outfits she designed for the participants in the Paris Olympics Opening Ceremony. These powerful women, embodying both physical and mental strength, are reminiscent of the Amazons. Perhaps it was their spirit, their embodiment of athleticism, that led to this bold embrace of sports-inspired elements in the collection. The Olympic fever is certainly not abating!
Photos: © ADRIEN DIRAND © SAGG NAPOLI, Courtesy of Dior, Gorunway.com Text: Itoi Kuriyama
