The scene: a courtyard within the Dover Street Market in Paris. Guests invited to attend UNDERCOVER’s Spring/Summer 2025 women’s wear presentation were guided through the courtyard, past a chair installation by artist Madoka Kawamata, and down to a lower level. Upon entering the room, they were met by mannequins dressed in familiar everyday pieces: white hoodies paired with black leather leggings, red knit polo shirts with matching five-pocket pants, white shirt dresses, khaki cardigans, white tailored blazer and skirt sets, biker jackets, and black long coat dresses. These mannequins were adorned with the same lace collars and headpieces featuring leaves and nails seen in the men’s show held in June. Some even sported new accessories, like gauze chokers embroidered with the words “KOSMIK WITCH.” But the most striking element was the detail applied to these seemingly ordinary garments. Leather straps with gold zippers were fastened with leather cords, while metal-buckled leather straps were woven together as part of the garments themselves.
Jun Takahashi himself, with the aid of a translator, explained the collection’s essence: “We often take everyday wear and add unique elements. That is the heart of UNDERCOVER’s design. By adding a touch of fetish, adjusting sizes and silhouettes, we can make everyday wear more sensual and elegant.”
The translator summarized his explanation: “Punk” serves as one of Takahashi’s foundational inspirations. The spirit of this subculture, which embraces freedom from restrictions, is essential to understanding punk fashion. Here, Takahashi takes this spirit and molds it into something undeniably mainstream, transforming the mundane into something thrillingly subversive.
Women’s Wear in Dialogue with Men’s Collection
A neighboring room showcased looks devoid of bondage elements. Pieces featuring gradient graphic prints, treated with needle-punching for a blurred effect, were inspired by Italian painter Roberto Bosisio, a continuation of the theme presented in the men’s collection in June. These were essentially the women’s wear counterparts of the men’s looks from last season.
The final room revealed four dresses in pink, white, black, and lemon prints, awaiting the guests. Models stood upon rotating platforms, draped in these pieces, each adorned with fin-like frills around the neckline and hems. Leather cords and zippers emphasized their silhouettes. These models wore lace masks and gold crowns, creating a sense of solemn grandeur.
By reviving their policy of presenting a single show per season, featuring either menswear or womenswear, and never both on the runway, UNDERCOVER opted for a presentation format instead. This season, with the designer himself in attendance, the presentation was particularly stimulating. Viewing the collection through a lookbook alone wouldn’t have captivated the audience in the same way. The presentation piqued curiosity and drew viewers in. Most importantly, guests were given the opportunity to ask the designer questions directly. When asked about his fetishes, it seemed that would remain a secret.
*See all of UNDERCOVER’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
