The invitation to Loewe’s Spring-Summer 2025 show, held on September 27th, was a gold ring tied with a leather cord, engraved with “LOEWE 1826”, a subtle nod to the brand’s founding year and its Spanish heritage. Arriving at the Château de Vincennes, the collection’s usual venue, guests were greeted by J.S. Bach’s violin sonata scores adorning the exterior walls. Inside, the space was starkly white, with a circular seating arrangement surrounding a captivating centerpiece: a bronze sculpture by British artist Tracey Emin, titled “The only place you came to me was in my sleep” (2017). A delicate bird perches atop a slender column, adding a touch of whimsicality.
Jonathan Anderson, known for his artistic inclinations, consistently incorporates art into his show spaces. This time, however, he chose a single piece, its subtle presence requiring a deliberate upward gaze to be appreciated. The connection between music and birds? A question that lingered until the show began. The first look was a sheer floral dress with a crinoline-like form, gracefully swaying with every step. Following the Spring-Summer 2025 men’s collection, Anderson presented fluid pants secured with leather patches, rigid coats with unbuttoned fronts, and elongated Oxford shoes. Feathers, reminiscent of the Fall-Winter 2023-24 collection, adorned tops, featuring captivating portraits of renowned artists and musicians.
Sparkling with embellishments like sequins and mother-of-pearl, couture-like mini dresses showcased meticulous detailing and craftsmanship. The finale featured a feather top emblazoned with Bach’s portrait paired with slim pants, concluding the show on a note of artistic refinement. While the collection presented a kaleidoscope of elements, a sense of lightness permeated the entire experience. The theme, as communicated in the press release and post-show interview, was “radically stripping away to reveal the silhouette.”
The gold ring on the invitation was a reference to Tudor rings, traditionally engraved with initials or couples’ portraits, representing a symbol of love. This gesture signified the bond between Loewe and its audience and served as a memento of the show. The link to music was articulated as “hearing the melody and rhythm when all the noise is stripped away.” The graphic prints of musicians and famous artworks, referencing concert venue and museum merchandise, evoke a sense of nostalgia and cherished memories. Anderson’s interest in Tracey Emin’s sculpture stemmed from the bird’s ability to adopt multiple perspectives, symbolizing freedom. The silk dress featuring Impressionist floral patterns was a more fluid iteration of the lace cylindrical dress worn by Greta Lee, Loewe’s global brand ambassador, at this year’s Met Gala. It was a playful evolution from the jersey top that sculpted the face in the Spring-Summer 2023 collection.
Even after unraveling each detail, fully comprehending Jonathan Anderson’s intricate thought process remains elusive. Yet, we’re compelled to uncover the underlying intentions, captivated by his eloquent narratives, simultaneously intrigued and perplexed. It’s this inherent allure of the clothes that fuels this fascination.
Ultimately, “stripping away” stands as the key theme for this season. The minimalist set and airy aesthetic are consistent with this approach. The connection to the men’s collection and the archive underscores a commitment to building upon existing ideas rather than endlessly adding new ones. However, the “radical” stripping away is anything but tame. Anderson’s signature blend of surrealism, humor, and pop sensibility permeates the collection, ensuring that even when the original concepts are revealed, we remain captivated by the unexpected.
