The French Riviera, synonymous with sun-drenched glamour and celebrity sightings, holds a secret: a winter wonderland waiting to be explored. While the region’s summer allure is undeniable, a new wave of discerning travelers are discovering the magic of the Côte d’Azur in the off-season.
For centuries, the Riviera was a winter retreat for European aristocrats seeking solace from the harsh northern winters. But then, in the early 20th century, a shift occurred. The region became synonymous with summer revelry, attracting a different kind of crowd. Now, a return to winter’s embrace is happening, and it’s redefining luxury and charm.
Spearheading this revival are new and restored hotels, eager to showcase the Riviera’s unique winter charm. The Maybourne Riviera, a glass-and-concrete masterpiece perched above Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, opened its doors in 2021, embracing the region’s captivating winter light. The Anantara Plaza, formerly the belle époque Hôtel de France, reopened in 2023, bringing back the grandeur of Nice’s Promenade des Anglais, revitalized for the off-season. And in St Tropez, the kitschy Arev and the historic Hôtel du Couvent, led by France’s hotelier extraordinaire Valéry Grégo, welcome guests with open arms throughout the winter months.
Hôtel du Couvent, a testament to Grégo’s passion for restoration, is an experience in itself. This 17th-century convent, meticulously restored to its former glory, boasts acres of terraced gardens filled with citrus trees, olive groves, and Provençal herbs. The hotel’s on-site apothecary, where herbalist Gregory Unrein crafts soothing infusions, adds to the immersive experience. Inside, the neo-monastic interiors, inspired by Rose Uniacke’s refined minimalism, exude Mediterranean warmth. From the mahogany minibar stocked with local spirits to the Picasso gouache in the Terrasse du Cloître suite, every detail is a testament to the hotel’s refined elegance.
And then there’s the food. Le Restaurant du Couvent, headed by Chef Thomas Vételé, presents a welcome respite from the region’s haute cuisine. The menu, inspired by Elizabeth David’s approach to cooking, celebrates the flavors of the Riviera with dishes like chilled ratatouille made with fresh garden vegetables and herbed veal chops.
Beyond the hotels, the Riviera offers a wealth of winter delights. For art enthusiasts, Villa Arson, a Brutalist architectural masterpiece, is a hub for contemporary art. A ferry to Île de Porquerolles allows you to escape the mainland and experience the Riviera’s pristine beauty.
For a cultural immersion, the Musée Marc Chagall in Nice showcases the artist’s religious works, while the gardens, designed in collaboration with Henri Fisch, provide a tranquil retreat. In Grasse, the Domaine de Manon, a fourth-generation perfume producer, welcomes visitors to explore the fields of cabbage roses, tuberoses, and royal jasmine used in Dior perfumes.
Architectural gems abound, from Eileen Gray’s modernist villa in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin to the flamboyant Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Marseille, with its historic shops like Maison Empereur, Le Pere Blaize, and Oeuvres Sensibles, offers a unique shopping experience.
For history buffs, Villa Kérylos, built as a tribute to ancient Grecian landmarks, is a fascinating journey back in time. And in Villefranche-sur-Mer, Jean Cocteau’s painted chapel, adorned with mythical frescoes, is a testament to the artist’s vibrant imagination.
With its blend of art, culture, history, and stunning natural beauty, the French Riviera in winter offers a unique and unforgettable experience for the discerning traveler.
