Fashion’s Size Inclusivity Stalls: Ozempic, Thinness, and the Return to Size Zero

The fashion industry, once heralded for its strides in size inclusivity, is facing a concerning setback. A recent Vogue Business report, analyzing the spring/summer 2025 runways across New York, London, Milan, and Paris, reveals a worrying plateau in efforts to represent diverse body types.

The report paints a stark picture. While 0.8% of looks presented were plus-size (US 14+), a figure that remains stagnant from the previous season, the overall representation of mid-size (US 6-12) models also saw only a slight increase, from 3.7% to 4.3%. The majority of looks, a staggering 94.9%, were straight-size (US 0-4). This stark imbalance suggests a regression towards a more narrow and unrealistic ideal of beauty.

This shift aligns with a broader cultural trend towards the glorification of thinness. The growing use of Ozempic, a GLP-1 drug initially developed for diabetes, has contributed to this trend. Originally reserved for celebrities and influencers, Ozempic is now becoming more affordable and accessible, leading analysts to predict a decline in demand for larger sizes. The rise of weight-loss influencers promoting Ozempic further fuels this trend, creating a vicious cycle where thinness is presented as the ideal.

Several industry insiders, including casting director Emma Matell, have noted the growing concern surrounding the health of models. The increased use of extremely thin models is raising alarms about the potential for eating disorders and the pressure models face to conform to unrealistic body standards.

The report highlights the stark contrast between the growing number of brands championing size inclusivity and the reality on the runway. While emerging brands, particularly in Paris and London, continue to prioritize body diversity, major luxury houses are lagging behind.

The report explores several potential solutions, including stricter regulations and industry-wide initiatives focused on model health and safety. However, ultimately, it underscores the need for a fundamental shift in the fashion industry’s approach to body image and representation. Brands need to commit to casting healthy models and prioritize size inclusivity on the runway, ensuring models don’t feel pressured to conform to an unhealthy thinness ideal.

This situation presents a critical turning point for the fashion industry. The rise of Ozempic and the renewed focus on thinness are not simply trends; they are symptoms of a deeper societal issue surrounding body image and the pressure to conform to unrealistic beauty standards. The fashion industry, with its immense influence, has a responsibility to set a healthier example and promote a more inclusive and diverse representation of beauty.

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