While the fashion world’s eyes are glued to the catwalks of fashion week, Prada has been looking towards the Mediterranean waters of Barcelona. This is because the Milanese brand is embarking on its seventh challenge in the world’s oldest international sporting competition: the Louis Vuitton America’s Cup.
Fashion and sailing don’t often intersect, except perhaps during the brief reign of boat shoes or at Cannes parties (those luxury yachts, sans sails, don’t really count). Yet, since 1997, driven by the passion of Chairman Patrizio Bertelli, Prada has consistently been involved in this pursuit of the sport’s ultimate prize. Earlier this year, Miuccia Prada herself christened the team’s latest sailboat, Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli AC75. The intensity of this year’s competition is evident, as the boat even narrowly escaped being struck by lightning in the initial weeks of the competition.
While the ultimate goal is to bring the trophy, currently held by New Zealand, to Italy for the first time, Prada’s participation in sailing has also indirectly helped the brand navigate the choppy waters of fashion. Back in 1997, as Prada prepared for Luna Rossa’s first challenge, they also launched the Linea Rossa collection, which remains the official outfitter for the sailing team.
Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group’s Chief Marketing Officer and Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, stated in an email, “Prada combines the know-how of developing technical sportswear for the Luna Rossa team with the brand’s aesthetic, creating the Linea Rossa collection.” He further adds, “Blending the technicality of sportswear fabrics and refinement typical of its apparel into a formal, everyday outfit, embodies the Prada spirit of unconventionality.”
In menswear, the term “technical” usually refers to clothing designed for high-performance functionality, or at least the appearance of it, often achieved through the use of advanced technical fabrics. Linea Rossa’s clothing, footwear, and eyewear are rooted in the high-performance background of sailing, making the functionality and durability of these pieces, rather than simply fashion items, more like works of industrial design.
This robust functionality hasn’t hindered Linea Rossa from taking its place on Prada’s highest stage. In 1999, Linea Rossa made its debut on the runway of the men’s and women’s mainline shows (the men’s hand-in-hand runway appearance was particularly memorable). It made a second appearance in 2000. The red line returned to the runway in 2018, coinciding with Prada’s move from Via Fogazzaro to the Fondazione Prada. We saw it again in the Spring 2020 show in Shanghai, and most recently, in the Spring/Summer 2021 “Show That Never Happened” during the pandemic.
According to Vogue’s sailing watch team (which is basically just me), this year’s Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team and boat are strong contenders, likely to emerge victorious from the initial “Challenger” phase and earn the right to face New Zealand for the America’s Cup. Whether for fashion or sailing, we’re hoping for their success, as such a high-profile win would certainly signal the return of Linea Rossa to the runway.
