Junya Watanabe’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection took center stage at the Césure complex, a multi-purpose facility situated on the campus of Paris’s Third University, a location that has hosted several other brands. The runway, constructed with simple white panels, stretched between rows of guests. The show kicked off with a powerful first look: a dress adorned with a train, seemingly reconstructed from the elements of a backpack, accompanied by the booming soundtrack of Donna Summer’s “I Feel Love.” As models passed, they would pause for a moment, locking eyes in a captivating display of intensity.
The collection was a masterclass in upcycling, featuring recognizable logos from Japanese motorcycle apparel brands, such as DEGNER and KOMINE, the latter being a collaborator in Watanabe’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. The overall aesthetic was one of chaotic brilliance, a fusion of seemingly disparate elements that created a futuristic and powerful atmosphere. Silver shimmered throughout, and the collection showcased a diverse range of materials, including tablecloths transformed into lace dresses, dresses adorned with random patches of sponge, and a finale look where Irina Shayk graced the runway in a dress that resembled a striking piece of armor.
In the words of Junya Watanabe, “I feel that everyday life needs abnormal clothes.” This collection, with its sculptural techniques, embodies this belief, reimagining everyday materials into works of art. Watanabe’s recent collections have increasingly moved away from traditional clothing, embracing a more abstract approach. This shift was evident in the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, which focused on “objects” rather than garments, and the Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection, which proposed a styling concept that blended everyday wear with “sculptures.”
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection continues this journey, with Watanabe exploring a range of unconventional materials, showcasing a bold and audacious spirit. The collection retains a sense of elegance, a testament to the brand’s mastery of pattern making and its ability to craft beautiful, sculptural forms.
Watanabe’s powerful garments encourage a sense of aggressive confidence. The collection suggests a desire to inspire others to embrace a bolder, more dynamic approach to fashion. As Watanabe continues to push boundaries, his Spring/Summer 2025 collection serves as a powerful reminder that fashion can be both art and a statement, a vehicle for self-expression and a catalyst for change.
