While the spotlight may have shifted from previous seasons, sustainability remained a prominent theme at Fashion Month, with a growing number of brands showcasing their commitment to eco-friendly practices. Here’s a glimpse into the most impactful moments that underscored the industry’s growing consciousness:
Pre-Loved Fashion Takes the Runway
eBay’s ‘Endless Runway’ shows, held in New York and London, put pre-loved fashion front and center. Showgoers and viewers at home could bid on items directly from the catwalk, promoting a circular economy. Oxfam, in partnership with Vinted, staged its second-hand fashion show, featuring British Vogue’s Julia Hobbs sporting the iconic banana-print top worn by Kate Moss. Coperni celebrated its Disneyland Paris show with vintage Disney T-shirts, while Roberto Cavalli paid tribute to its late designer by showcasing archival designs worn by supermodels. The widespread embrace of second-hand and vintage pieces on the runway signals a promising trend for the future.
Highlighting Textile Waste
Beyond the runways, The Or Foundation, an organization based in Ghana’s Kantamanto Market (the world’s largest second-hand clothing market), created a giant clothing zombie installation in New York to raise awareness about textile waste. The organization, which partners with Vestiaire Collective to sell upcycled garments by Ghanaian designers, is urging brands to disclose their production volumes to gain a clearer understanding of the industry’s overall impact.
Diesel’s Denim Revolution
In Milan, Diesel covered its catwalk with 15 tons of denim scraps from its factories, a powerful visual representation of the brand’s commitment to circularity. Diesel’s creative director, Glenn Martens, stated, “There is beauty in waste, in what is distressed and destroyed. We are pushing for circularity in our production as hard as we push the elevation of design.” This season, 57% of Diesel’s denim was made from regenerative, organic, or recycled cotton, a significant increase from 3% when Martens joined the brand in 2020.
Next-Gen Materials Take Center Stage
The runways were awash with innovative materials. Christian Siriano showcased Circ, a recycled fiber made from polycotton waste, while Feben utilized OnceMore, a blend of viscose and recycled textile waste. Knwls partnered with Tencel, a sustainably sourced wood-based fiber, and Karoline Vitto crafted her signature designs using Seacell, a seaweed-based material. Ganni debuted a range of its ‘Fabrics of the Future’ innovations in Paris, including Oleatex, an olive-oil-based leather alternative, and Celium, a bacteria-grown leather.
Stella McCartney’s Bird-Inspired Collection
Longtime animal rights advocate Stella McCartney, known for her commitment to leather-free designs, turned her attention to birds this season. Inspired by the estimated 3.4 billion birds killed annually for feather down, she created a collection featuring dove prints, a bird-shaped bra top, and a fluffy blue minidress made from recycled plastic bottles. This move highlights the designer’s ongoing pursuit of ethical and sustainable practices.
Honoring Sustainability Champions
At the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards in Milan, Brunello Cucinelli, known for his commitment to Italian craftsmanship and ethical business practices, received the Visionary Award. Diesel was recognized for its efforts to promote circularity, and Arizona Muse’s charity Dirt, which champions regenerative agriculture in fashion, was also honored. These awards recognize the growing importance of sustainability within the fashion industry and celebrate those leading the charge towards a more ethical and responsible future.
