In São Paulo, an increasing number of restaurants are taking their commitment to fresh, flavorful dishes a step further by cultivating their own gardens. This practice not only elevates the taste of their cuisine but also demonstrates a dedication to sustainability. By reducing dependence on external suppliers, these restaurants minimize transportation needs, leading to lower carbon emissions and a more eco-friendly cycle. This approach also respects local biodiversity, eliminating the use of harmful chemicals that can damage soil and water.
“It’s another way to bring this to the public, besides the many benefits, like curating and even planting harder-to-find items, like nasturtium, for example. It even improves the flavor of the final dish, or drink, because the herb is so fresh,” explains Chef Martin Casilli of Sky Hall Terrace Bar in Vila Nova Conceição.
Chef Enrique Paredes has also embarked on a similar initiative at Ama.zo, located in the Casa da Don’Anna in Campos Elíseos. He decided to utilize the space of the historical building and create a garden where he now cultivates lettuce, parsley, chives, sorrel, mint, and PANCs (non-conventional edible plants) to supply the restaurant. “We haven’t yet reached enough production to cover all our needs, but the goal is to increase it. We envision a future where each chef has their own dedicated space in the garden, as we have ample room for that,” shares Enrique.
The garden isn’t solely managed by the chef; the caretaker, Edgar, takes care of the garden along with the ten hens, three roosters, and two turkeys that contribute to the restaurant’s menu. Enrique’s sustainable endeavors don’t stop there: three boxes of native bee honey thrive in the same space as the garden and chicken coop, tucked away from customer view.
Here are five São Paulo restaurants that have embraced this sustainable gardening trend and offer a delectable experience for those seeking fresh, vibrant, and healthy cuisine:
Altruísta Osteria e Enoteca
With six VIP and reserved rooms, Altruísta Osteria e Enoteca boasts a wine cellar with over 850 labels and a harmonized tasting menu. The restaurant also boasts an organic garden, a testament to their commitment to fresh ingredients. According to Chef Sebastião Wilmar, the decision to install the garden stemmed from understanding the importance of fresh ingredients in crafting and finishing dishes. “We had this area available on the top floor and created the garden. The biggest benefit is having fresh ingredients always at hand, ready to use. We grow rosemary, mint, and basil,” explains Sebastião. “We believe it’s something different from the traditional approach of buying from suppliers and often not knowing how they were cared for.” Their menu features dishes like Polpo Alla Griglia e Salsa Verde (R$169), grilled octopus with a herb and caper sauce, served with grilled gnocchi, and Gnocchi Al Duo Di Zucca (R$69), gluten-free pumpkin gnocchi with Italian zucchini and Paris mushrooms.
Amaz.o
Chef Enrique Paredes oversees a self-sustaining production at Amaz.o. The menu highlights fresh, vibrant dishes like the Trio de Cebiches (R$142) – featuring the catch of the day, shrimp, and octopus, accompanied by traditional tiger’s milk, red rocoto, and yellow aji amarillo sauces. Also on the menu is the Carpaccio de Langostinos (R$89), a warm carpaccio of smoked shrimp with black quinoa caviar, passion fruit honey, and artisanal cecina, and the Cebiche Miraflores (R$92). The latter is made with the catch of the day marinated in lemon and pepper, along with smoked rocoto pepper sauce, purple potato mousse, and canchita (corn) crumble.
Sky Hall Terrace Bar
The open-air terrace of Sky Hall Terrace Bar is home to a garden, carefully planned to align with the restaurant’s sustainable ethos. “It’s another way to bring this to the public, besides the many benefits, like curating and even planting harder-to-find items, like nasturtium, for example,” says Chef Martin Casilli. The founder of the group also highlights the meticulous care taken with the plantation: there’s automation for pest control, irrigation, and temperature management, all carefully planned with the help of an agronomist. “It even improves the flavor of the final dish, or drink, because the herb is so fresh. All these processes and maintenance are to ensure the highest possible quality in our offerings,” clarifies the chef. With ingredients directly from the garden, be sure to try the Roastbeef Sandwich (R$44), featuring Tartaruga project natural fermentation bread, homemade roast beef prepared sous vide, wild arugula, confit tomato, and paprika mayonnaise. There’s also the Risotto di Zucchine, Mint, and Pistachio (R$68), a carnaroli rice risotto with toasted zucchini, mint, and pistachio, finished with a quenelle of burrata cream.
Amadeus
Set in a cozy and elegant ambiance, Amadeus is renowned for its culinary approach that values fresh and local ingredients. The garden on the veranda is more than just an aesthetic addition; it’s an integral part of the restaurant’s sustainable concept. “We’re committed to offering dishes that reflect the richness of our region’s biodiversity, and this goes beyond taste; it’s about preserving traditions and respecting nature,” comments Chef Bella. “Our dishes are finished with herbs and edible flowers from our garden and showcase the harmony between the flavor and freshness of handpicked ingredients directly from our garden. Having a garden of herbs and edible flowers on the Amadeus veranda is a true signature of freshness and authenticity. Each herb hand-picked brings to our dishes not only an unmatched aroma and flavor but also a direct connection to nature. By cultivating our own ingredients, we guarantee the quality and freshness our customers deserve, while promoting sustainability and valuing the best our land has to offer. This transforms every meal into a unique experience, where freshness travels directly from the earth to the table,” the chef adds. One of the dishes featuring garden ingredients is the Black Smoked Anchovy Carpaccio, accompanied by fresh pupunha heart of palm, citrus herb sauce, and garden flowers.
Mesa III Pastificio
Experience a restaurant-quality meal at home with fresh, pre-prepared dishes, without spending hours in the kitchen. Mesa III, a renowned pastifício (pasta shop) with almost 30 years of experience, offers its customers the result of meticulous artisanal work that has garnered numerous awards from specialized critics. Aninha, as Chef Ana Soares is affectionately called, dedicates herself wholeheartedly to the project, constantly creating new culinary delights. They create handmade pasta with stunning aesthetics, filled with delicate, generous, and surprising flavors. Aninha describes herself as an “architect by training and a cook at heart.” Blending her two passions—architecture and cuisine—she crafts visually appealing pasta, meticulously filled with generous portions and flavorful surprises. Aninha also has a garden with fresh herbs like basil, rosemary, mint, lemon grass, and Sicilian lemon, used to finish their dishes. “The scent of fresh herbs is always present on our veranda—a true luxury! We use these freshly picked herbs to finish the lunch dishes of our Pasta-Café, adding a touch of freshness,” concludes Chef Ana Soares.
These São Paulo restaurants are leading the way in showcasing the connection between fresh, flavorful cuisine and sustainable practices. By cultivating their own gardens, they are not only elevating the taste of their dishes but also contributing to a more environmentally conscious food system.
