The question, ‘Am I happy?’ echoes in our minds. If you happen to be Finnish, the answer is likely a resounding yes. For the seventh consecutive year, Finland tops the World Happiness Report. Some attribute this to their strong sense of community and connection, while others, like chef Sami Tallberg, credit their deep bond with nature – hiking through lush forests, relaxing by serene lakes, and embracing the art of foraging for food.
On a picturesque island near the southwestern city of Turku, Sami guides me through the enchanting world of foraging. Finland’s unique ‘everyone’s rights’ law allows us to explore even privately owned land, making this experience truly accessible. Under Sami’s expert guidance, I learn to identify bilberry leaves and uncover a treasure trove of blueberries hidden beneath the forest floor. Rare juniper berries, taking three years to ripen, and the intoxicating scent of wild cranberries and strawberries add to the adventure. Dessert is practically sorted!
When it comes to mushrooms, Sami, with his warm smile and sandy hair, gently reveals that I have much to learn. He encourages me to sniff a particular mushroom – it smells like almond croissants! But this ‘fishy milkcap’ surprises with its unexpected fish flavors when cooked. My excitement peaks when I spot a giant toadstool, but Sami explains, while not poisonous, it’s not particularly tasty. ‘Finding something is a bonus when you’re foraging,’ he says, sensing my disappointment at my prize find being rejected. But in this game of ‘Pokemon Go’, with Sami gracefully leaping through the undergrowth, spotting hidden delicacies invisible to the rest of us, he is the undisputed champion.
As a summer storm gathers, we retreat to Sami’s kitchen, where a symphony of flowers and leaves await – harebells, dandelions, sheep’s sorrel, wall lettuce, orpine, wood sorrel, and St John’s wort, each adding its unique flavor to the culinary masterpiece. Sami expertly blends these ingredients into a deer tartar, resulting in a dazzling explosion of fresh, piquant, and peppery flavors. Every bite is a unique sensory experience.
For the main course, Sami prepares sea zander with pike roe sauce and new potatoes, but the star of the show is undoubtedly the mushrooms – girolles, hedgehog mushrooms, fishy milkcaps, and pickled black trumpets – their complex flavors harmonizing in a symphony of taste. I’m feeling euphoric, but the culinary journey continues with a delightful treat – wild berries served in a herby meringue crown, their aromas and flavors echoing the sunny forest floor, even as the thunder rumbles outside our villa overlooking the sea.
Finland is actively encouraging foraging, and the proof is in the pudding, or rather, the berries. In Turku’s lively town square, opposite my hotel, a vibrant food market unfolds six days a week. Vendors proudly display their foraged treasures, benefiting from the tax-free policy for locally sourced goods. The next day, I wander through Turku, Finland’s former capital, savoring the bounty of nature. The medieval cathedral and castle, along with the preserved Luostarinmäki quarter, offer captivating glimpses into the city’s rich history. For a truly authentic culinary experience, Turku’s market hall is a must-visit. The beautifully crafted wooden booths, dating back to 1896, house a treasure trove of local delicacies and lunch counters. To keep this culinary tradition alive, Turku is making it accessible to its younger generation. As I cruise down the Aura river in an electric boat, I encounter party ships brimming with the city’s 40,000 students, infusing the city with youthful energy. This vibrancy spills over into the public squares, where I spot pensioners gracefully dancing the tango. Thankfully, Turku’s restaurants offer exceptional value, catering to every budget, from budget-friendly options to upscale venues. At the waterfront Nooa, a four-course tasting menu costs a reasonable €69 (£57). Dinner cruises of the Finnish archipelago, with its breathtaking array of over 40,000 islands, also offer excellent value. On the steamship Ukkopekka, I embark on a romantic journey through islands of pink granite, with pine trunks bathed in the warm glow of the sunset.
The following day, I venture to Naantali, the gateway to Moomin World. This Riviera-like town boasts a spacious spa hotel ideal for families and the charming boutique Tammiston Kuulas restaurant-hotel, renowned for its sustainable practices. Recognizing the need to hone my foraging skills, I head to Kurjenrahka National Park, north of Turku, guided by Anna Kari from Finland’s Rural Women’s Advisory Organisation. She focuses on three easily recognizable mushrooms – russula, ceps, and chanterelles. Ceps offer a beef-like texture and taste, while chanterelles boast a light spring-onion broth, which Anna expertly prepares on the spot. We cross a marsh, discovering cloudberries and bog bilberries, and gather rowan berries in the forest, the perfect ingredient for a refreshing, almond-like lemonade. Even the humble dandelion finds its place in our culinary adventure, destined to transform into a honey-like jam.
The joy of foraging lies not only in preserving the skills of generations past but also in capturing the essence of those halcyon summer days. The flavors of nature’s bounty, harvested with care and respect, become a testament to the enduring connection between people and the land.
Ready to embark on your own Finnish foraging adventure? I highly recommend exploring this unique side of Finland. Remember, while it’s important to be respectful of nature, the rewards are truly delicious.
