## Louis Shengtao Chen’s ‘Echos in the Fog’: A Cinematic Spring Collection Reflecting China’s Youth and Urban Landscape
Shanghai Fashion Week’s resident romantic, Louis Shengtao Chen, presented a cinematic spring collection titled ‘Echos in the Fog.’ Stepping away from the traditional runway format, Chen opted for a film and lookbook to showcase his latest creations, offering a unique and introspective view into his design process.
Chen’s decision to forgo a runway presentation stems from his desire to delve deeper into the essence of his collection. “I started knowing I was not going to do a show, so I didn’t have this huge mission of having a big presentation,” he explained. This shift allowed him to move beyond the superficiality of a show and focus on the true essence of his designs.
‘Echos in the Fog’ is a collection born from introspection, a journey through the complexities of youth navigating a rapidly changing world. Drawing inspiration from his hometown of Chongqing, known for its misty and gloomy atmosphere, Chen evokes the feeling of being enveloped in a haze of uncertainty and reflection. The echoes, he says, represent the multitude of voices, both internal and external, that shape our experiences in our late twenties, especially as we grapple with questions of belonging, direction, and identity.
This introspective theme is further amplified by Chen’s inspiration from the works of Sixth Generation filmmaker Lou Ye, specifically his films ‘Summer Palace’ and ‘Suzhou River.’ These films, set against the backdrop of China’s post-1989 Tiananmen Square protests and massacre, capture the gritty realities of urban life and the struggles of young people navigating a tumultuous social landscape. “Those movies are about girls who are struggling, who are figuring out if they are staying and hiding or running away,” Chen observes, drawing parallels to the existential questions he explores in his collection.
Beyond the thematic depth, ‘Echos in the Fog’ showcases Chen’s exceptional craftsmanship and innovative approach to design. This season, he embraced a slower, more deliberate process, returning to his roots by handcrafting many of the pieces in his studio, a practice he hadn’t engaged in since the inception of his brand. This meticulous approach is evident in the collection’s standout pieces, including a series of “wig hats,” a corseted pannier, and a lace-up jacket adorned with hand-crafted cotton and georgette flowers. The intricate 3D argyle pattern, initially conceptualized for a gown, was then transformed into a more commercially viable multilayered version for blouses. Chen also experimented with jersey, creating slinky frocks that showcased his signature draping technique with a heightened sense of sensuality and accessibility. The inclusion of denim and ultrasuede mini dresses accented with silk ribbons further expands his design repertoire, demonstrating his growing skill and versatility.
‘Echos in the Fog’ marks a significant milestone for Louis Shengtao Chen, solidifying his position as a leading force in Chinese fashion. The collection’s introspective theme, coupled with his meticulous craftsmanship and exploration of new materials and techniques, has resulted in his most successful outing yet. This cinematic collection not only offers a compelling visual narrative but also serves as a powerful testament to the growth and evolution of both Chen as a designer and the burgeoning Chinese fashion landscape.