Breaking into the upper echelons of the luxury fashion sphere is a feat that few new brands achieve. It’s a world dominated by heritage heavyweights – think Hermès, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton – a world burnished by decades of prestige, and patronized by big-name film stars, aristocracy, and royalty. When then small screen teens, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, established The Row back in 2006, not only was this world as impenetrable as ever, but the “celebrities launching their own fashion brands” club wasn’t exactly an aspirational one.
Fast forward 18 years, and this logo-less label, which earlier this year made its official debut in The Lyst Index Top 20, rivals esteemed brands for desirability, with its sumptuous staples, lust-worthy accessories, and exacting eye for detail. “The Row are the epitome of understated and timeless elegance, they make simple wardrobe foundations feel luxurious and unique. Every season I am in awe of this brand and how true it stays to its DNA,” explains Libby Page, market director at Net-a-Porter. “The Row is one of my top destinations for a trans-seasonal wardrobe, with impeccable detailing, quality, and craftsmanship they have set the benchmark for quiet luxury dressing. They excel at intelligent dressing for intelligent women of all ages.”
Indeed, it has been impossible to escape this notion of “quiet luxury,” following a year in which Gwyneth’s cashmere-clad court appearances made headlines and Succession’s deep-dive into the wardrobes of the one per cent fuelled the public’s obsession with a particular brand of casual wealth. So yes, you could argue that The Row is very “on trend” at this exact moment – according to Lyst, searches for the brand increased by 93 per cent for Q1 2024, meanwhile the Margaux tote was declared the hottest product of the quarter, with searches spiking 198 per cent year-on-year – but, as ever, the Olsens seem to be impervious to the media clamour.
Notable for their lack of social media presence, the Olsen sisters’ lives are shrouded in mystery, and their brief public appearances are always subject to much speculation (and sartorial dissection). In a world dominated by 24/7 social sharing and celebrity branding exercises, the Olsens’ apparent disinterest in the circus that surrounds them only makes them more fascinating. Therein, perhaps, lies the secret to The Row’s success: true luxury in 2024 is not hype-driven or internet-breaking, but unassuming and slow, slipping (almost) under the radar. It’s clothing that speaks of an inner confidence. These are future fashion heirlooms in the making.
“Everything Mary-Kate and Ashley do turns to gold,” said Joe Karban, The Row’s production manager, now vice president of sourcing and production, to the The New York Times back in 2009. “The kids on the team are really passionate about making clothes. How do you set a proper sleeve? How does a fabric perform? It’s the art of making clothes as opposed to making everything cookie-cutter.” From the perfect pair of trousers to those sellout accessories, The Row continues to redefine luxury and capture the hearts (and wardrobes) of fashion enthusiasts worldwide.