The air crackled with anticipation as the lights dimmed at Shanghai’s Heim club, the venue for Ximon Lee’s latest runway presentation. “This is the only show in Shanghai where you’ll see some hot boys,” joked a friend, highlighting the unique allure of Lee’s designs. Indeed, his runway was a parade of stylish men, a stark contrast to the typical Shanghai fashion scene.
Lee, a Hong Kong-born, Berlin-based designer, has carved a niche for himself with his unique blend of club culture and high fashion. Known for his subtle, yet impactful designs, Lee’s work is often inspired by the underground scenes he has cultivated throughout his career. His latest collection, inspired by the coming-of-age story in the Japanese cult film ‘All About Lily Chou Chou,’ delves into the complexities of youth.
The collection, infused with a sense of playful awkwardness, reflects the tensions of growing up – the feeling of invincibility, the rise of nostalgia, and the pressure of potential. Lee’s exploration of these themes manifests in his designs: micro shorts, one-shoulder draped tops, embellished tank tops, glossy shirting, and even a pair of satiny boxer shorts with a built-in jockstrap.
The collection’s standout pieces were its innovative button-downs. Some featured dress shirt cuffs on short sleeves, while others had knitted panels that extended into full-length sleeves. These unconventional designs showcased Lee’s technical prowess, his ability to transform the ordinary into something extraordinary.
This Shanghai runway show marked Lee’s return to the traditional fashion week format. Having previously presented his collections through lookbooks and showrooms, Lee felt the need to reclaim the energy and impact of a live show. “This season has been challenging, but it felt meaningful to do a show because I want to feel proud,” he said backstage.
However, the true essence of Lee’s designs is best experienced in their natural habitat – the club. The after-party that followed the show transformed Heim into a pulsating space where the techno faithful and fashion crowd collided. It was a celebration of Lee’s distinct aesthetic, a fusion of metropolitan cool and rave-ready sexiness. The after-party served as a reminder that Lee’s designs aren’t just about clothes; they’re about a feeling, a lifestyle, an energy that transcends the runway and spills into the world.