Moncler Genius, the brand’s innovative platform for multi-faceted collaborations, made its triumphant debut in Shanghai, transforming the city into a sprawling urban jungle of creative expression. The event, a testament to the brand’s ambition to push boundaries and celebrate the power of collaboration, brought together an impressive lineup of designers, artists, and cultural icons, each contributing their unique vision to a dazzling spectacle of fashion, art, and technology.
The buzz surrounding Moncler Genius was palpable throughout Shanghai Fashion Week. The sheer scale of the event, with over 8,000 attendees gathered at a historic shipyard spanning over 300,000 square feet, was a testament to the brand’s commitment to creating a truly immersive experience. The whispers amongst attendees about the production cost, rumored to be around €30 million, only added to the mystique surrounding this ambitious undertaking.
But what exactly is Moncler Genius? The concept, launched in 2018 by Moncler CEO and chairman Remo Ruffini, has evolved beyond traditional designer collaborations. This year, Ruffini reimagined Genius, expanding its scope to encompass “geniuses” from diverse walks of life, each bringing their unique expertise to the table.
The Shanghai event, inspired by the Genius logo—a building with eight windows, each representing a different creative force—was envisioned as a bustling metropolis. Each “genius” was tasked with creating their own neighborhood within the larger urban landscape, showcasing their interpretation of the Moncler vernacular.
Willow Smith, the brand’s youngest-ever collaborator, showcased her black and white designs around a willow tree, while Donald Glover, inspired by his farm in Ojai, California, presented his lineup surrounded by an abundance of orange trees. Nigo, in partnership with Mercedes-Benz, built a scaffolded structure, showcasing his ’90s streetwear collection alongside two iconic G-Class vehicles. The car on the rooftop marked the first-ever purchasable vehicle stemming from the three-way partnership.
Francesco Ragazzi, of Palm Angels, brought the thrill of speed to the event with a mini Gran Prix. Hiroshi Fujiwara’s FRGMT collection, a testament to the importance of Japanese designers in the Genius mix, offered a minimalist and contemplative space designed in collaboration with British sculptor Richard Wilson. Edward Enninful’s neighborhood, a poignant commentary on climate change, presented models traversing inclement weather on a treadmill, highlighting the need for adaptation in a changing world.
Lulu Li, a cross-disciplinary artist and the sole Chinese creative tapped for the event, showcased her AI-driven digital-first creative process in a room full of mirrors. Her collection will be the first Genius collection available in stores later this week, with the rest following next spring.
While the entertainment portion of the evening featured remarkable performances by Henry Lau and Chen Lijun, and the expo showcased an art installation by Xu Bing, the absence of other Chinese designers in the collaborative mix was perplexing. Many talented designers from the Shanghai Fashion Schedule would have made worthy partners, further enriching the event’s cultural tapestry.
Despite this, Moncler’s commitment to the Chinese market was evident. The brand’s double-digit growth among Chinese consumers in the first half of this year underscores the region’s strategic importance. Ruffini, who visits China every six months, is impressed by the country’s “fast mentality, culture, and fashion.”
“I would say we need a global strategy but with a domestic approach,” said Ruffini. “Domestic means learning the different cultures around the world, and China is very important to us.”
The event culminated with a spectacular showcase of the Jil Sander collection by Luke and Lucie Meier. Inspired by nature, the lineup featured beautiful paper yarn feather-like textures, knitwear lined with down filling, and double-faced wool pieces with removable down linings, all bearing the signature Moncler symbol as jewelry and brooches.
“We wanted to make it a collaboration but not compromise our design language,” said Lucie, with Luke adding, “we are quite happy because it feels organic and true to both brands.”
The Jil Sander collection was a standout, showcasing the power of collaboration while maintaining the integrity of both brands.
Rick Owens, known for his avant-garde designs, presented his interpretation of the Moncler vernacular with a scaffolded metal structure featuring a tiny house on top. “Everything I’ve done with Moncler is about insulated aesthetics, because they’re all about insulation and protection,” said Owens. “We have done a tour bus and a soundproof bed, and now we did a refuge.” This “refuge,” a testament to Owens’s unique vision, is available for purchase, reflecting his belief in making his designs accessible to all.
A$AP Rocky’s collection, inspired by his “ghetto futurism” aesthetic, showcased modular console with 14 different features, including an ashtray, a projector, and recording and music producing capabilities.
From start to finish, Moncler Genius Shanghai was an awe-inspiring event, showcasing the power of collaboration, creativity, and innovation. The event left a lasting impression, demonstrating Moncler’s commitment to expanding its reach and pushing the boundaries of fashion, art, and technology. As the brand continues to evolve, one thing is certain: Moncler Genius is a platform where creativity knows no bounds.
