Giorgio Armani’s love for New York is as evident as his own dedication to evolution and reinvention. This was clear in his statement before the show, “What I love most about New York is the speed of the city, the constant innovation, and its ability to remain true to its essence while transforming into something completely different.” These traits, aptly described by the designer himself, were reflected in his latest collection.
For his 90th birthday, Armani presented a captivating retrospective of his 49-year journey in fashion, showcasing 90 looks that were anything but a mere walk down memory lane. Each piece exuded freshness, echoing Armani’s commitment to staying relevant while honoring his heritage.
This marked the first time the Giorgio Armani main line staged a show outside Milan. The choice of New York for the Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear collection, following the 2013 “One Night Only” event, was a celebration of the newly opened Armani/Casa complex on Madison Avenue.
Inspired by the architectural aesthetic of the 1930s and 40s, the new 12-story building seamlessly blends into the historic Upper East Side landscape. Spanning 9,000 square meters, it houses Giorgio Armani and Armani/Casa boutiques, Armani/Ristorante, and luxurious Giorgio Armani residences. Reports suggest the complex generated over $1 million in sales in its first three days of operation.
However, the decision to present the collection in New York, a first outside the Milan fashion calendar, goes beyond the celebration of a new complex. It marks a return to the city that played a crucial role in Armani’s meteoric rise from an unknown startup to one of the world’s leading fashion designers.
Following Milan, New York became a crucial springboard for Armani’s global success. “When I first came to New York in the late 1970s, having only seen it through a screen, I was deeply inspired. It was a time of great excitement for the city, for America, and I felt like I was part of that energy,” shared Armani, reminiscing about his early visits.
A Journey Through Time and Visions
The show, held at the Park Avenue Armory in the Upper East Side, commenced with a visual cue – two steam locomotives projected onto the walls. The curtains then fell, revealing a grand central station-inspired setting, a sprawling space reminiscent of a train station waiting room. This served as the starting point for Armani’s sartorial journey.
The first look showcased a model in a cropped trench coat, pleated pants tucked into half-boots, carrying a clutch bag with a gray leather pouch attached to her belt. Behind her, a porter walked with luggage in hand, highlighting the thematic exploration of characters and their individual journeys.
Subsequent looks intricately depicted characters through accessories and styling. One model seemed to be rushing somewhere, her knitted tie blowing in the wind as she held a tailored suit jacket over her shoulder. Another, adorned in a silk bloomers pant and a jacket dress in a unified blush color palette, carried a puppy under her arm, hinting at a privileged background. Each model on the runway embodied a distinct persona, embarking on their own personal narratives.
However, this show wasn’t merely a fictional journey. It was a profound exploration of the pivotal periods and visions that shaped Armani as a designer.
The opening saw a vibrant collection of women’s travelwear, infused with global cultural influences, drawing inspiration from the East. The use of plain weave checks and jacquard silk provided both visual and tactile stimulation. The collection presented a fusion of styles and silhouettes, from tunic-like shirts that accentuated the shoulders, to vest-inspired tops, and delicate organza long skirts.
Although the women’s tailored pieces were somewhat toned down in this collection, Armani compensated with a strong menswear offering. “Clothing should enhance the individuality of the wearer, and tailoring is timeless, so it can perfectly highlight this individuality. It may seem like we are bound by the past, but I believe tailoring is the future,” Armani shared before the show.
One particularly striking look featured a silk stripe suit dyed in various shades of sage green, and another layered an unstructured jacket over an Armani-style baseball shirt.
Tailored jackets were also reinterpreted as button-up raincoats, while three-piece suits were given a relaxed, yet refined design.
The second half of the show saw the introduction of women’s silk items with wavy stripes, sheer skirts and tops. The eveningwear, with its soft silhouettes, elegantly signified the transition from day to night. The color palette also shifted from urban grays to luxurious beige, bronze, blush, and powder blue.
The finale brought back the opening model, this time in a shimmering dress and flanked by three male models in velvet evening jackets, marking the descent of the night.
“The path from conception to creation is unpredictable, but that is precisely what makes it exciting,” said Armani. With this show as a new starting point, he continues to weave his sartorial narratives, leaving an indelible mark on the world of fashion.