In the hushed, dimly lit seventh-floor studio of Comme Des Garçons’ headquarters in Tokyo, a unique fashion story unfolds. Tao Kurihara, known for her earthy and whimsical approach to design, unveils her latest collection, a captivating tribute to the beloved Moomins, the whimsical characters created by Finnish artist and author Tove Jansson.
The Moomins hold a special place in Japanese hearts, with more dedicated stores in Japan than anywhere else globally. As 2024 marks the 80th anniversary of the Moomins’ arrival in the world, Kurihara’s collection serves as a celebration of their enduring charm. However, this is no ordinary Moomin merchandise. Kurihara’s vision is much deeper, a testament to her unique artistic sensibility.
Rather than simply adorning garments with the characters, she dives into the heart of Jansson’s artistry. Jansson’s self-portraits, with their signature cigarette in hand, are transformed into bold polka dots and harlequin patterns that grace vibrantly colored dirndl skirts. Kurihara’s interpretation extends even to the early Moomin prototype, Snork, featuring him on playful T-shirts and tote bags.
The color palette echoes the natural world, with Finnish landscapes and meadow florals printed on cotton dresses, their silhouettes given an unmistakably Comme touch by cascading ruffles and tulle. These soft, organic tones give way to stark white ensembles, elevated by delicate broderie anglaise and asymmetrical ruffles. Later, tailored gray jackets take center stage, their structured forms softened by dramatic ruching that sweeps across the shoulders and chest.
The collection culminates in a series of dramatic looks, layers of stormy-colored tulle and sheer metallic fabric, all adorned with Jansson’s iconic smoking vignette. It’s a truly unique interpretation of Moominvalley, demonstrating Kurihara’s masterful ability to weave her inspirations into the distinctive Comme Des Garçons universe.
Kurihara’s design philosophy clearly echoes the spirit of Rei Kawakubo, Comme Des Garçons’ founder. She too embraces the concept of “generating new ideas” by juxtaposing disparate elements, a principle she learned during her time at Saint Martins, which she joined in 1997, just a year after graduating. Within the Comme Des Garçons family, Kurihara is arguably the closest to Kawakubo in both aesthetic sensibility and her ability to translate the artsy and whimsical into commercially viable pieces.
Yet, there’s an undeniable allure in imagining how Kurihara might push her own boundaries beyond the lines Kawakubo has drawn. In her own words, Jansson’s life “was lived without forgetting her own independence and freedom.” It’s a philosophy that resonates deeply with Kurihara, and one that inspires us to embrace our own individuality and boundless creativity.