The year was 1997, and the Academy Awards were about to witness a fashion revolution. Nicole Kidman, a rising star at the time, graced the red carpet in a stunning creation by John Galliano for Dior’s 1997 spring/summer haute couture collection. The dress, a chartreuse masterpiece adorned with intricate Chinoiserie embroidery, was a breathtaking sight, turning heads and making a statement unlike anything seen before.
While the look now seems effortlessly chic, it was groundbreaking at the time. It was unusual for celebrities to wear such high-fashion couture on the red carpet, and the dress sparked controversy, with some criticizing its boldness. However, the dress, now famously known as the ‘Absinthe’ gown, has come to be recognized as a pivotal moment in fashion history.
John Galliano himself acknowledges its significance: “She really made a big impact on the world with that look,” he recently remarked at Vogue’s “Forces of Fashion” event. “It was the moment Hollywood understood haute couture.” The dress’s impact extended beyond mere aesthetics, as Galliano explains: “In Hollywood, fashion is a big business, and this kind of red carpet style blossomed because there were those trendy celebrities who could secure big-name stylists, makeup, and fragrance partnerships. Nicole in Galliano’s Dior was the origin of all that.”
The dress holds a special place in Kidman’s heart, remaining one of her favorite red carpet looks: “The embroidery, the shape, everything was just so beautiful,” she shares. Hemish Bowles, Editor at Large for Vogue, agrees, calling the dress a “sign of the times when true fashion was gaining acceptance at the Academy Awards.”
Considering the recent surge in vintage fashion on the red carpet, it’s surprising that Kidman’s iconic dress has not been seen in public since its debut. However, the reason is quite heartwarming. In 2017, Kidman revealed that she keeps the dress carefully preserved in her wardrobe: “I have the one John Galliano made for me in my size. I’m going to save it for my daughters.”
Her eldest daughter, Sunday Rose, is already making a name for herself in the fashion world, having walked the opening of Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2025 show in October. Perhaps we’ll see her wearing the dress on a red carpet or at a fashion show one day, continuing the legacy of this iconic piece.
