## Empresses of Seventh Avenue: How American Designers Redefined Fashion During World War II
In an era dominated by the grandeur of Parisian couture, a new generation of American designers emerged, challenging the status quo and defining a distinct American style. Nancy MacDonell’s captivating book, *Empresses of Seventh Avenue*, tells the stories of these trailblazers, highlighting the revolutionary work of women like Elizabeth Hawes and Claire McCardell during the pivotal years of World War II.
MacDonell’s research reveals a fascinating shift in the fashion landscape. While the world looked to Paris for inspiration, these American designers, often overlooked, were redefining the very essence of clothing. They championed practicality, comfort, and a sense of American ingenuity, rejecting the rigid and often impractical dictates of Parisian fashion.
Elizabeth Hawes
, a pioneer in American design, saw the need for a distinct American identity in fashion. After studying couture in Paris, she realized the limitations of copying Parisian trends, ultimately choosing to create her own American legend. She established her own house in New York, refusing to be bound by Parisian standards, and became a household name in the 1930s, appearing in ads for cigarettes, alcohol, and chewing gum. Her designs, characterized by full skirts and movement-friendly silhouettes, celebrated a sense of American practicality and self-expression.Claire McCardell
, a contemporary of Hawes, further revolutionized fashion with her focus on ready-to-wear design. She questioned the conventional norms of Parisian fashion, asking instead, “How can I make something that is missing in my wardrobe?” This problem-solving approach led her to create designs that addressed the needs of real women. She championed ease of wear, rejecting the constraints of restrictive garments. McCardell’s iconic designs, like the “Poof Dress” and the “Clam Digger” pants, became symbols of a new era of American fashion, one that was both stylish and practical.McCardell’s ingenuity extended to her approach to footwear. During the war, shoes were rationed, but there was a loophole for ballet slippers. Seizing the opportunity, she partnered with Capezio, a company known for ballet slippers, to create flat, built-up ballet slippers that could be worn on the street. This clever solution reflected her commitment to functionality and innovation, making her a true champion of American design.
MacDonell’s book reveals a fascinating parallel between the American designers of World War II and the emergence of new voices in fashion today. Just as Hawes and McCardell redefined fashion during a time of change, contemporary designers like Rachel Scott and Willy Chavarria are embracing their heritage and injecting fresh perspectives into the fashion world.
*Empresses of Seventh Avenue* is a timely and insightful exploration of a pivotal moment in American fashion history. It reminds us of the enduring power of American ingenuity, the importance of practicality and comfort, and the constant evolution of style. It is a must-read for anyone interested in the history of fashion, the power of women in business, and the enduring influence of American design.
