This year has seen a surge of nostalgia in fashion-related cultural events. Documentaries like *The New Look*, *Cristóbal Balenciaga*, and *Becoming Karl Lagerfeld* have brought the legendary worlds of Christian Dior, the “King of Fashion,” and Karl Lagerfeld to life on screen. Meanwhile, London exhibitions have re-evaluated the work of John Singer Sargent, hailed as a pioneer of styling, explored the iconic 1960s brand Biba created by Barbara Hulanicki, and delved into the history of fashion photography, showcasing the work of masters like Peter Lindbergh and Paolo Roversi. Disney+’s *In Vogue: The ’90s* further fueled this trend, captivating audiences with a look back at the transformative decade.
But nothing quite encapsulates the breadth and depth of fashion’s evolution like Vogue’s new exhibition, *Inventing the Runway*. This immersive experience traces the incredible journey of the catwalk, spanning a century of innovation, from the elegant haute couture ateliers of Charles Frederick Worth to the digitally-driven livestreams of today. The exhibition’s premiere, held in the stunning Lightroom space in King’s Cross, was a dazzling affair.
The guest list read like a who’s who of the fashion world. Theatre director Nicholas Hytner, founder of Lightroom, welcomed the crowd alongside Anna Wintour, Mark Guiducci, Chioma Nnadi, and narrator Cate Blanchett. Hytner shared the story of the collaboration, revealing that it blossomed from a previous visit by Wintour and Guiducci to Lightroom’s David Hockney exhibition. The event attracted a diverse gathering of prominent designers, including Tom Ford, Daniel Lee, Jonathan Anderson, and Haider Ackermann, alongside iconic models like Rosemary Ferguson – a mainstay of the “Cool Britannia” era – and Giselle Norman, a frequent presence at Karl Lagerfeld’s extravagant Grand Palais shows. Both models expressed their excitement at revisiting these pivotal moments in fashion history.
The evening commenced with a sophisticated cocktail reception, featuring vodka sours and spicy margaritas, in Lightroom’s spacious atrium. Guests enjoyed delectable canapés, including pea and feta tarts with za’atar honey, seared beef fillet, and cheddar sable with poached pear and radicchio, courtesy of the renowned London establishment Ottolenghi. Amidst the elegant white wax flower arrangements, conversations buzzed with shared memories of iconic runway moments brought back to life in *Inventing the Runway*, from Alexander McQueen’s mirrored cube in his Voss collection to the idyllic lavender fields of Jacquemus’s Spring/Summer 2020 show. Following the reception, guests moved into Lightroom’s immersive space to experience the exhibition’s full impact.
Laura Ingham, deputy director of the Global Fashion Network, eloquently captured the event’s significance: “It’s rare in fashion that we have the opportunity to look back,” she reflected. “Our focus is almost always forward-facing, analyzing and reviewing the upcoming season, discussing the mood and trends that will shape what’s next. So to have the chance to reflect on the fashion shows that have impacted us all has been amazing. I was there when Demna presented his apocalyptic Autumn/Winter 2020 show on the outskirts of Paris, with models walking a flooded runway to the sounds of deafening hardcore trance. *Inventing the Runway* completely transported me back to that moment – the same unsettling feeling, my hair standing on end with the intensity of it all – but a little closer to home.” The evening concluded with more champagne toasts, leaving attendees with a renewed appreciation for the rich history and enduring power of the fashion runway.
