The world of fashion mourns the passing of Polly Allen Mellen, a titan of the industry who died at the age of 100. Mellen wasn’t just a fashion editor; she was a force of nature, a whirlwind of creative energy and opinionated wit that left an indelible mark on the world of high fashion photography and styling. Her legacy extends far beyond the glossy pages of Vogue; she was a true visionary, a collaborator who pushed boundaries, and an icon whose influence continues to inspire today.
Born in 1924 in West Hartford, Connecticut, Mellen’s rebellious spirit was evident early on. Even at Miss Porter’s School, an elite institution also attended by Jacqueline Bouvier, Mellen bucked convention, expressing herself through unconventional style choices rather than academic pursuits. This nonconformity became a hallmark of her career, where she fearlessly embraced the new and unconventional.
Her path to fashion stardom wasn’t a straight line. After working as a nurse’s aide during World War II and exploring retail at Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue, she transitioned to publishing at Mademoiselle. A pivotal moment came when Sally Kirkland, a respected editor, secured her an interview at Harper’s Bazaar. There, in 1950, she entered the orbit of Diana Vreeland, a legendary figure who would profoundly shape Mellen’s career. It was also at Bazaar that she met Richard Avedon, a collaboration that would blossom into a decades-long symbiosis, despite an initial hesitancy on Avedon’s part due to Mellen’s vibrant personality. Vreeland, recognizing their unique synergy, insisted they work together, leading to some of fashion’s most unforgettable images.
Her career was punctuated by high points, including a brief marriage and move to Philadelphia, raising two children before returning to the fashion world. In 1967, she followed Vreeland to Vogue, embarking on a remarkable journey that involved a lavish five-week trip to Japan with Avedon and model Veruschka, resulting in the iconic “Great Fur Caravan” – reportedly the most expensive fashion editorial ever produced. Her work at Vogue spanned decades, and includes unforgettable shoots with icons like Twiggy, Nastassja Kinski, and collaborations with legendary photographers such as Helmut Newton and Deborah Turbeville. Each shoot was a testament to her innovative spirit, and her ability to push creative boundaries.
Beyond her editorial work, Mellen’s persona was as captivating as her creations. She was known for her exuberant expressions of enthusiasm during fashion shows— spontaneous tears and overhead claps were common occurrences—and it was said designers would often check to see if she’d cried, viewing it as a sign of their work’s success. In later years she became a style icon herself, modeling for Michael Kors and the Gap and making memorable appearances in fashion documentaries such as *Unzipped* and *The Editor’s Eye*.
Anna Wintour, Vogue’s global editorial director, perfectly encapsulated Mellen’s essence: “Polly was a mercurial grand dame with boundless energy and a deep love for her work and for the creative process.” Steven Klein, a close collaborator, added: “Polly was one of the most visionary fashion editors of our time. She pushed boundaries and had no limitations, creating some of the great photographs of our time.” Mellen’s relentless drive, creative vision and collaborative spirit leave an unparalleled legacy in the world of fashion. Even after retiring in 2001, her influence continues to resonate through the countless images and stories she helped create, forever solidifying her place in fashion history.
Her life and career serve as a testament to the power of creative passion, unwavering determination, and the ability to leave an enduring impact on the world. Polly Mellen will be deeply missed, but her influence on the landscape of fashion will forever remain vibrant and unforgettable.
