The end of the US Open signals a familiar feeling: a tennis fan’s post-season lull. Yet, for our family, it signifies a different kind of season – the indoor tennis season. But first, a getaway was needed: somewhere warm, fun, and adventurous – a place that would satisfy my kids’ need for an escape from the mundane. Enter South Carolina’s Lowcountry.
I’d been hearing tales of the Lowcountry from friends for years, and Hilton Head Island, in particular, held a special allure for me. Growing up in the landlocked Midwest, I was an avid reader of Tennis magazine, fascinated by the back-page ads for tennis camps and vacations, many seemingly located in this mythical place called Hilton Head. Then, I had the incredible opportunity to meet Stan Smith, the legendary US Open and Wimbledon champion (yes, the one with the shoe), at the Open. He invited me to come down to Hilton Head to hit with him. It felt like fate.
Our journey began with a short flight from New York to Savannah, Georgia, followed by a quick drive to the Montage Palmetto Bluff. As we turned onto the languid streets, lined with moss-draped trees, the “real world” faded away. We settled into our spacious, three-story brick home, a new build reminiscent of Southern architecture, nestled in the heart of Wilson Village. With rental bikes and a golf cart at our disposal (the primary mode of transportation across the sprawling 20,000-acre property, much of which is a protected nature conservancy), we set out to explore.
Montage Palmetto Bluff exuded a relaxed yet sophisticated Southern luxury. The tempo was slow and calming, punctuated by white picket fences, riverfront cottages, and inviting porches perfect for naps or lemonade. While I usually find myself skeptical of fabricated high-end utopias, this place felt different – seamlessly integrated and effortlessly charming.
A sprawling inn, complete with a library and cozy fire pits, welcomed us. Dining options ranged from casual grab-and-go to sit-down experiences like Buffalo’s, our go-to lunch spot serving fresh seafood and produce from the resort’s gardens, and the slightly more upscale Octagon inside the inn. Yet, despite the indulgences available, my days weren’t filled with food comas and naps. Perhaps it was the children’s endless energy or the abundance of activities, but we were constantly on the move, seeking fun and adventure.
Our first morning began with a boat tour on a small Hinckley yacht, accompanied by the resort’s resident naturalist, Cassie Beato. As we enjoyed breakfast charcuterie, Cassie shared her knowledge about the area’s abundant bird and animal life, including owls, bald eagles, wild turkeys, and deer, all amidst the maritime forest of oak and pine.
If you were to ask my children what they remember most from our Lowcountry vacation, they’d instantly recall the moment we spotted a large alligator on a dock. It seemed to sense our approach, stalked to the end of the dock, and slithered into the river, heading directly towards us! Of course, nothing happened – we never saw the gator again. But the excitement of that encounter remains a highlight of their trip.
Our afternoons were filled with adventures: exploring a rustic-chic treehouse, swimming in one of the many pools, or engaging in a resort-wide scavenger hunt. My wife, meanwhile, found her own form of relaxation at the sprawling Spa Montage, emerging from a 90-minute HydraFacial in a state of radiant bliss.
Of course, I had my own selfish reason for being there: to prepare for my tennis match with Stan Smith. Every morning, I’d wake up to the breathtaking beauty of the Lowcountry – the dappled light, the warm air, and the mesmerizing landscapes – and head to the Wilson Lawn & Racquet Club. This club, equally out of a dream, boasts eight Har-Tru courts, all overseen by Martin Aviles, the club’s director.
Aviles, truly a master of his craft, deserves a knighthood, or at least an American-style Légion d’honneur. He expertly deconstructed my problematic forehand, improved each aspect, and helped me reassemble it, fixing a nasty case of the yips with common sense and intuition.
Our final night was a celebration of our Lowcountry adventure. We dropped the kids off at Paintbox, an inventive playspace-meets-childcare operation on the second floor of the inn. They were enthralled by the opportunity to explore the property in the dark, make s’mores, identify birds and bugs, and have the time of their lives. My wife and I enjoyed a luxurious dinner at the resort’s flagship restaurant, River House, savoring caviar and potato chips, crab cakes, strawberries and burrata salad, and rainbow trout, followed by rhubarb cheesecake and a nightcap at the speakeasy, Hush.
The next morning, before our departure, we all went standup paddleboarding on the May River. The views were stunning – glassy waters, distant forests, perfect weather, and perfect conditions. But then, just a few feet away, a pod of dolphins surfaced, playing and rolling, leaving us in awe.
And so, on to Stan Smith, or as his operation in nearby Hilton Head is known, the Smith Stearns Tennis Academy. Since 2002, the academy has worked with talented junior players from around the world, guiding them through their studies and tennis development.
We stayed just around the corner from the academy, within the massive (and historic) Sea Pines Resort. Our home was a large three-story house, a testament to the scale of this resort. Sea Pines has its roots in the late 1950s when Charles Fraser, inspired by the harbor of Portofino, Italy, envisioned a new kind of tourism that prioritized environmental concerns and active recreation. He encouraged his employees to picnic with their families and play tennis, a forward-thinking approach that made Sea Pines a pioneer in resort development, influencing design and management around the world.
Today, Sea Pines retains its laid-back ambiance – Spanish moss, shimmering light, towering live oaks – while offering the modern comforts of luxury homes scattered across 5,000 acres. We found ourselves surrounded by bicycles, perfectly sized for each member of our family. I helped my son learn to ride his bike (and avoid those pesky alligators!), navigating the paths winding around the golf course.
Later, we all enjoyed a refreshing swim in the pool, followed by a sunset dinner cruise aboard an 80-foot motor yacht, Top Shelf. As we sailed out of the estuary, scores of dolphins jumped and played in the sun. Before dinner, I performed a ceremonial leap from the yacht’s roof into the sea, emerging unscathed. That night, we slept soundly.
The next morning, a basket full of croissants, tarts, and brioche arrived from Hilton Head Social Bakery. While the rest of the family headed to the pool, I went to meet Stan Smith. He seemed perfectly suited to Sea Pines – laid-back, affable, and accomplished. “I just came down once and fell in love with the place,” he told me. “I signed as a touring pro at Sea Pines Resort, and I’ve been that ever since – and then we started this academy 20 years ago. Our goal is to get our kids to a college that’s appropriate for their tennis and their academics.” One of those players, Jessie Pegula, has gone on to become one of the best women in the world.
Smith’s career spans an incredible era in tennis – he’s played against legendary players like Don Budge, René Lacoste, Fred Perry, Jimmy Connors, Boris Becker, and John McEnroe. Now, he was about to play me.
As we walked onto the courts at the academy, I asked him if there was one key lesson he’d learned after years of teaching. “The biggest problem,” he said, “is that people aren’t playing every day. And if you’re not playing a lot and not in great shape, after a while things are going to break down.”
I won’t go into the details of our match. Suffice it to say that Smith’s easygoing nature and expertise were on full display. I learned a lot about my game, and I managed to preserve my ego. My son, who usually avoids tennis, even joined in, hitting with another member of the Smith Stearns staff. Soon, my wife and daughter, both non-tennis fans, joined in as well, and we found ourselves on the court with Stan Smith, chatting and swinging.
My kids still think of him as the shoe guy. But one day, they’ll understand. And so, our Lowcountry adventure ended, leaving us with a treasure trove of memories – from alligators and dolphins to treehouses and a legendary tennis champion.
