The realm of high jewelry is witnessing a captivating resurgence of color, as jewelers embrace a spectrum of gemstones far beyond the traditional precious stones. While exceptional rubies, emeralds, and sapphires continue to enchant unique creations in high jewelry, a kaleidoscope of hard, fine, and ornamental stones such as amethyst, lapis lazuli, peridot, aquamarine, and tourmaline are illuminating recent high jewelry pieces, captivating the hearts of women. These ultra-colorful gems allow for larger creations and provide a broader spectrum of hues than the four traditional precious stones. The discovery of new gems, utilized for just a few decades, has further contributed to their desirability. From tanzanite and tsavorite garnet, both appearing in 1967, to the highly coveted Paraiba tourmaline, first discovered in 1989, these stones have added a new dimension to the world of jewelry.
Both prestigious houses and independent jewelers are nurturing an equal fascination for both noble and lesser-known stones. They are playing matchmaker, celebrating unexpected and dazzling marriages between precious, fine, and hard stones, offering vast palettes of colors ranging from the lightest to the darkest. Pale pink, burgundy, lilac, grenadine red, yellow, brown, mint green, navy blue, cardinal purple—all audacities are permitted!
The “tutti frutti” aesthetic, with its combination of grooved or ribbed ruby beads, engraved emeralds, and sapphires carved into vegetal motifs, is present in all of the high jewelry collections. To commemorate its 140th anniversary, the Roman house unveils the “Aeterna” high jewelry collection, showcasing a plethora of rare stones. The 150 creations intertwine sapphires, rubies, rubellites, turquoises, kunzites, green tourmalines, and emeralds. With the “Les Formes de la Couleur” collection, Pierre Hardy, the creative director of the house’s jewelry, explores the theme of color for the first time. A thousand hues inspired fifty-eight high jewelry pieces. Caroline Scheufele, the co-president of Chopard and artistic director of jewelry, charmed the Cannes Film Festival last May with her “Red Carpet 2024” collection, inspired by fairy tales. Victoire de Castellane is one of the main initiators of the grand return of color in jewelry. The designer does not hesitate to juxtapose different colored stones on the same jewel.
The folkloric ceremonies of Baden-Baden, in the Black Forest region, are an opportunity to wear flamboyant crowns decorated with multicolored pearls, ribbons, or flowers. These inspire the creations of the house. Sport inspires the latest high jewelry collection dubbed “Haute Joaillerie Sport” with unprecedented color combinations and geometric effects. The Chaumet “En Scène” collection features a remarkable series of rubellites and tourmalines oscillating between green and blue. With its fifth high jewelry collection, “The Dualism of Milan,” the Italian jeweler imagines creations saturated with pop colors. Faceted topazes, blue sapphires, garnets, rubies, emeralds, tourmalines, kunzites, and aquamarines mark the history of the famous Milanese jeweler. Graff succumbs to the deep hues of rubies and emeralds with two bracelets featuring graphic lines. At the heart of its “Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Céleste” collection, the American jeweler reinvents its iconic brooch adorned with a thousand colors. The jeweler’s “Forces of Nature” collection interweaves rare white, green, orange, brown, and pink diamonds. Buenos Aires, Fred Samuel’s favorite city, inspires his granddaughter Valérie for the “Monsieur Fred Ideal Light” high jewelry collection. Piaget, celebrating its 150th anniversary, also succumbs to tinted and solar stones like yellow sapphires, aquamarines, turquoises, garnets, pink sapphires, opals, etc., for creations filled with joy in the “Essence of Extraleganza” high jewelry collection. The “New York” collection’s adornments are inspired by the details of Manhattan’s architecture. Francesca Amfitheatrof, artistic director of the jewelry and watchmaking universe of the brand, imagines braided gold and platinum adornments to imitate the art of basketry, mosaic, or passementerie, punctuated by magically hued stones. The pearl specialist blends the pearly halos of Akoya pearls with numerous colorful gemstones for its new creations. Inspired by the medallion montages of old jewels, the “Frame” rings are designed as frames that showcase the center stone. The jeweler, in love with colored stones, continuously combines them for contemporary and poetic creations. The new “Labirinti” high jewelry collection takes you on a journey to discover the sumptuous Italian gardens, whose abundance is transcribed into jewelry. For its new high jewelry collection, the Italian brand honors a rain of colorful gems. The Japanese designer distinguishes herself through her use of symbols of nature, fauna, and flora, for collections with a unique aesthetic. The British designer draws inspiration from the chromatic palette of the rainbow for this model. Each piece imagined by the jeweler tells a story, exploring diverse themes such as fauna, flora, and artistic movements. This new incarnation of the color spectrum is a true celebration of color, evoking fragments of a rainbow. The designer, known for her jewelry with graphic, asymmetrical, and organic associations, creates sculptural earrings. The tennis bracelet is one of the essential pieces in jewelry.
More jewelry trends on Vogue.fr:
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– Last summer, Gigi Hadid was already wearing the coolest trend seen on the runways
